Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown offwidth to fists T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Alf
Page Views: 4,382 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


219 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

Find the route Wigglin' Worm and look just about 40 feet to the left. You will see a set of chalked up thin cracks, near the ground. These twin cracks are thin and delicate at the base. Protect with a .5" or smaller cam behind a thin flake for pro on the left, and climb up a bit higher to good gear.

Stem, layback, and jam up between the opposing flakes and cracks for about 70', until the right-hand side slopes over to a ledge with an anchor.

The moves are reasonably easy, but require a little bit of power here and there. One could argue that this route is 5.9.

Protection

This route is pretty secure and offers reasonable good gear in a variety of sizes, I double set of cams .5 to 3" should suffice to protect the route if you do not have an "Indian Creek rack."

From the ground, the route appears to require all small gear, but the 'invisible' crack on the left will take gear from 2-3" for the top half of the route.
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
  5.10
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
  5.10
fun route, not the atypical Indian creek splitter. good warm up Apr 18, 2016
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
We were well stocked on gear 0.75 and below, and as a result sewed it up with nothing bigger than that. I thought this route was pretty solid 10 (but I suck at stemming). Quality route. Mar 18, 2015
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.10-
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.10-
This route is varied with stemming and finger jamming. I think this route is really fun and a great warm up for the harder finger cracks at reservoir wall. If you are looking to climb a low-end 5.10 at the creek, this might be the best one. Sep 5, 2011
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
A nice warmup. I'd recommend a couple smaller pieces - green and yellow alien sized. Mar 23, 2009
Gavin Ferguson
Portland, OR
Gavin Ferguson   Portland, OR
FA of Dr. Carl was done by Alf Randell. We all know Alf! Oct 16, 2008
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
  5.10-
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
  5.10-
This has a little something for everyone (except us Vedauwoo offwidth freaks). I really enjoyed the variety at the grade. Sep 21, 2008
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Okay route just no jamming. Good face climbing. Nov 26, 2007
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Nice climb overall. However, when I climbed this last week (nov 23 2005) the large flake towards the top 1/4 of the route flexed enough to make me not want to yard on it, even though there was a ton of chalk on it, at the least I would advise not placing gear behind this. Nov 29, 2005
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
 
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
 
I believe this route was called "Dr. Carl"; back in the day of plaques and such... Oct 10, 2003
I agree that this should get two stars. Lots of variety in the moves...not your typical plug-n-chug. Apr 28, 2003
I'd have to vote for two stars on this one. It's not the best route at the crag, but the moves are a lot of fun. It makes a great warm-up for the other classics nearby. Apr 20, 2003

More About Dr. Carl

Printer-Friendly Guide