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Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
David's Second Movement T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Frosted Flakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Merry Cherry T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
On Look T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Alf
Page Views: 4,654 total · 23/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

Find the route Wigglin' Worm and look just about 40 feet to the left. You will see a set of chalked up thin cracks, near the ground. These twin cracks are thin and delicate at the base. Protect with a .5" or smaller cam behind a thin flake for pro on the left, and climb up a bit higher to good gear.

Stem, layback, and jam up between the opposing flakes and cracks for about 70', until the right-hand side slopes over to a ledge with an anchor.

The moves are reasonably easy, but require a little bit of power here and there. One could argue that this route is 5.9.

Protection

This route is pretty secure and offers reasonable good gear in a variety of sizes, I double set of cams .5 to 3" should suffice to protect the route if you do not have an "Indian Creek rack."

From the ground, the route appears to require all small gear, but the 'invisible' crack on the left will take gear from 2-3" for the top half of the route.
I'd have to vote for two stars on this one. It's not the best route at the crag, but the moves are a lot of fun. It makes a great warm-up for the other classics nearby. Apr 20, 2003
I agree that this should get two stars. Lots of variety in the moves...not your typical plug-n-chug. Apr 28, 2003
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
 
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
 
I believe this route was called "Dr. Carl"; back in the day of plaques and such... Oct 10, 2003
Danny Inman
Arvada
 
Danny Inman   Arvada
 
Nice climb overall. However, when I climbed this last week (nov 23 2005) the large flake towards the top 1/4 of the route flexed enough to make me not want to yard on it, even though there was a ton of chalk on it, at the least I would advise not placing gear behind this. Nov 29, 2005
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Okay route just no jamming. Good face climbing. Nov 26, 2007
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
  5.10-
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
  5.10-
This has a little something for everyone (except us Vedauwoo offwidth freaks). I really enjoyed the variety at the grade. Sep 21, 2008
Gavin Ferguson
Portland, OR
Gavin Ferguson   Portland, OR
FA of Dr. Carl was done by Alf Randell. We all know Alf! Oct 16, 2008
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
A nice warmup. I'd recommend a couple smaller pieces - green and yellow alien sized. Mar 23, 2009
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.10-
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.10-
This route is varied with stemming and finger jamming. I think this route is really fun and a great warm up for the harder finger cracks at reservoir wall. If you are looking to climb a low-end 5.10 at the creek, this might be the best one. Sep 5, 2011
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
We were well stocked on gear 0.75 and below, and as a result sewed it up with nothing bigger than that. I thought this route was pretty solid 10 (but I suck at stemming). Quality route. Mar 18, 2015
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
  5.10
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
  5.10
fun route, not the atypical Indian creek splitter. good warm up Apr 18, 2016
Alex Temus
Utah
  5.10-
Alex Temus   Utah
  5.10-
I'm surprised that this isn't rated higher - I thought this route was a blast! Nice change of pace from the typical Creek splitter. It requires some fun lie-backing with great rests between moves, finger and hand jams are occasional available and optional.

Great gear all the way up! The top left had some detached blocks, sure, they might wiggle a little, but they're definitely not going anywhere and provide great jugs while the right crack takes good gear. Nothing to worry about there, just plug your cams into the right corner.

I used Black-Green Totems (tips to off-fingers), with a second purple (0.5 camalot size) & a red dragon. That really sews it up. You probably could use a #2 or #3 at one spot, but it'd be tough to stop right there.

Sweet route! Highly recommend. Oct 28, 2018

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