Type: Trad
FA: Alf
Page Views: 5,344 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

Find the route Wigglin' Worm and look just about 40 feet to the left. You will see a set of chalked up thin cracks, near the ground. These twin cracks are thin and delicate at the base. Protect with a .5" or smaller cam behind a thin flake for pro on the left, and climb up a bit higher to good gear.

Stem, layback, and jam up between the opposing flakes and cracks for about 70', until the right-hand side slopes over to a ledge with an anchor.

The moves are reasonably easy, but require a little bit of power here and there. One could argue that this route is 5.9.

Protection

This route is pretty secure and offers reasonable good gear in a variety of sizes, I double set of cams .5 to 3" should suffice to protect the route if you do not have an "Indian Creek rack."

From the ground, the route appears to require all small gear, but the 'invisible' crack on the left will take gear from 2-3" for the top half of the route.

Photos