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Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers
Page Views: 1,042 total, 20/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Sep 4, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The guide book description (C)2013 is pretty much dead on without the details. The start is broken and loose and also a little spooky with a difficult crux getting into the finger crack. After the crux the crack quickly opens up to perfect hands and big hands to the anchor.

Location

This route is on the far left end of Reservoir Wall, about 20 minutes past Excuse Station. There is no trail and the bush whacking sucks but hopefully that will improve with some more traffic. The crack is in lighter colored sandstone vs the typical wingate and is very solid. Some of the rock around the start is a little chossy but easy to avoid.

Protection

Doubles of .3 to #1, lots of #2's and #3's to the anchor. A couple #3 Friends work well to supplement the Camalots. As of 9/2013 the anchor is the original from the first ascent with one bolt and aluminum hanger and one stopper. Interestingly when I got to the anchor there was no webbing or carabiners on either the bolt or the stopper, leading me to believe that Steve must have continued to the top. An updated anchor would be nice but I doubt this route will see much traffic (and I didn't have my bolt kit) so I left some slings and carabiners.

Photos

Nate Sydnor   Moab
Any work you'd like to put in to replace anchors is always appreciated Mr. Anus Oct 25, 2017
Anus Herder
Montrose, CO
 
Anus Herder   Montrose, CO
 
Cleaned a bit of stuff on the bottom, but boy oh boy hands/big hands splitta forever too good. Updated anchor would be awesome, will have to go back in the future! Oct 24, 2017
Great route!! Fun crux at the bottom in slightly iffy rock, might clean up with more traffic. Then tight hands for a bit, and then lots and lots of big hands to the top.

Once you're through the tight hands section, it's almost immediately #3 camalots clear to the anchor. I made do with 4 and a lot of bumping, but 5 or 6 would have been more fun.

I wish I had been equipped to add a bolt to the anchor. Instead I added a stopper and some webbing. So it's now an old decent-looking bolt, two stoppers, a bunch of tat and 2 carabiners.

There is sort of a trail forming, but the amount of vegetation on this part of the wall is really impressive. Still the bushwhack wasn't that bad. Apr 30, 2015
slim    
yeah, it think it was called S&P or something like that. really good route. pretty quiet over in that neck of the woods, once you get past excuse station... Sep 6, 2013
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
Walked by a couple other routes on the way to this one but didn't get on them. Will have to check them out next time. Sep 6, 2013
slim    
steve, did you happen to also do the route between good excuse and CH? long big hands flake sort of thing?

thanks for adding this one, we were going to do it last spring but ran out of daylight. Sep 5, 2013