Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Charlie S, October 2018
Page Views: 684 total · 19/month
Shared By: Charlie S on Oct 29, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

One fall morning, we make our way up to the crag.  Nearly every route is taken.  We start to look at the lines between the lines,  Behold, cracks abound!  We trudge on, farther around the wall, lamenting having not brought up the drill.  When we reach an open, established climb, Dave looks over to me and says "I kind of have to poop."  But Dave's a good guy, and adds "I can grab the drill while down there."

Like the many tunes he sings to himself with multiple movements, he moves himself down the trail with speedy finesse, back to Beef Basin for yet another movement.  Upon his return there was much rejoicing and a wonderful #3s crack was established.

There could be a third and fourth movements too to take it to the rim, but some trundling and a lot of cleaning would be required.  Maybe some day the entire composition will be completed.

Location

To the right of Finger Food and left of a short dihedral.  Carefully climb your way through the crumbling bottom and clip a bolt.  Traverse right across a rail and then establish yourself in the crack.  The crux is the changing corners through a pod.

Protection

To sew it up: a few long runners, 1x#1, 2x#2, and 8x#3.

Photos