Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Unknown Party, 5/2004
Page Views: 1,552 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 17, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). Continue past this perhaps another 100 meters to a MASSIVE left facing corner with a off-hands to off-fists crack in it. It is characterized by three small roofs in the corner and a slate with the name, grade, & date placed in a horizontal, 2 meters up the climb.Go up the runout start (5.8+ stemming) to reach 20M of perfect hand-jams, then continue up the widening crack past 3 rooves, each bumping the leader to the left slightly.

This is a good route, but needs a little more traffic to be great. The rock is solid, the line good, the moves great, adn the anchors trustworthy, However, under the first two roofs, there is some accumulation of dust that is not yet well cleaned off. My partner did some hand-brushing, but the route needs more, and we had no cloth or brush to dust it off with.

Protection

A run of cams from 2.5+ inches to 3.5 inches- heavy on the 3" and 3.5"

Photos