Avg: 2.7 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||Unknown Party, 5/2004|
|Page Views:||1,887 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 17, 2005|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas - LIFTED as of September 1st 2021
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldnt be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you dont want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This area is currently listed as a "raptor avoidance area". It is not a closure, but if you see the birds it is asked that you avoid the area. See the main page and/or contact the BLM for further details. Thanks.
To find this route continue left on Reservoir Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). Continue past this perhaps another 100 meters to a MASSIVE left facing corner with a off-hands to off-fists crack in it. It is characterized by three small roofs in the corner and a slate with the name, grade, & date placed in a horizontal, 2 meters up the climb. Go up the runout start (5.8+ stemming) to reach 20M of perfect hand-jams, then continue up the widening crack past the 3 roofs, each bumping the leader to the left slightly.
This is a good route, but needs a little more traffic to be great. The rock is solid, the line good, the moves great, and the anchors trustworthy, However, under the first two roofs, there is a great accumulation of dust that is not yet well cleaned off. My partner did some hand-brushing, but the route needs more.