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Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Sam Feuerborn and Skyelar Congdon
Page Views: 1,415 total, 32/month
Shared By: Shelton Hatfield on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

The Climb

A great offwidth line. Get warm as you jog up a low angle corner with a hand crack. You then reach a wedged pillar of surprisingly solid rock. Twin cracks on the sides of the pillar lead to a wide slot. Pick a side and slither in, working your way up until you get into #5 BD sized crack. Wrestle this crack through a grunty offset #5 bulge, followed by more #5 crack to a wide pod. Catch your breath for a second before the final "sprint" to the anchors. 50 feet or so of #5 C4 leads you to good bolts and chains.

A 70m reportedly gets you down with stretch. My 60m definitely did not. Be careful when lowering your ropes for the rappel as they could become stuck behind the pillar.

Where?

15 yards left of Pente. Look for the long splitter OW up high.

What to bring?

for C4s
#1 x 1
#2 x 2
#3 x 3
#5 x 2 to 4 depending on your tolerance for pushing them
#6 x 1 (could do without but it made me feel warm and fuzzy)

Gear Sling

70m cord

Photos

Michael Hasson
Sausalito, CA
Michael Hasson   Sausalito, CA
I got a 6 stuck on this route about a month ago -- if anyone manages to get it out and feels like sending it back my way that'd be wonderful! May 7, 2017
This route was put up by myself and Skyelar Congdon. Chacha Poya is the route to the left of it, sharing anchors but traversing the ledge into some broken hand cracks and the arching crack. I believe Brandon Gottung just did a direct start to this line and maybe added a bolt? Oct 25, 2016
Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
  5.10
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
  5.10
Small gear as listed for the first half. 3 #5's and 1 #6 will sow up the route just fine. Can be done with 2 #5's and 1 #6. I left a #6 at the crux and dumped 2 #5's for the last 5-60 feet. Awesome route!! And what a view from the chains!

Awesome route!! Oct 7, 2016
I got up to the offwidth roof, not realizing how tall it was, didn't have enough gear. I brought three useless #4s, only two #5s, and neglected the use for my #6s, and left them on the ground. Ended up bailing from the pilar. Dang it. Apr 11, 2016
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10
70m just reaches.

And indeed be careful with the rope on rap. Might be better to saddlebag rather than throw. I had a rope end fall back behind the pillar and get stuck. Luckily got it free after messing with it and ascending back up a ways to get well above and pull it straight up. Oct 20, 2014