Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Sam Feuerborn and Skyelar Congdon
Page Views: 1,618 total · 28/month
Shared By: Shelton Hatfield on Apr 13, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

The Climb

A great offwidth line. Get warm as you jog up a low angle corner with a hand crack. You then reach a wedged pillar of surprisingly solid rock. Twin cracks on the sides of the pillar lead to a wide slot. Pick a side and slither in, working your way up until you get into #5 BD sized crack. Wrestle this crack through a grunty offset #5 bulge, followed by more #5 crack to a wide pod. Catch your breath for a second before the final "sprint" to the anchors. 50 feet or so of #5 C4 leads you to good bolts and chains.

A 70m reportedly gets you down with stretch. My 60m definitely did not. Be careful when lowering your ropes for the rappel as they could become stuck behind the pillar.


15 yards left of Pente. Look for the long splitter OW up high.

What to bring?

for C4s
#1 x 1
#2 x 2
#3 x 3
#5 x 2 to 4 depending on your tolerance for pushing them
#6 x 1 (could do without but it made me feel warm and fuzzy)

Gear Sling

70m cord


Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
70m just reaches.

And indeed be careful with the rope on rap. Might be better to saddlebag rather than throw. I had a rope end fall back behind the pillar and get stuck. Luckily got it free after messing with it and ascending back up a ways to get well above and pull it straight up. Oct 20, 2014
I got up to the offwidth roof, not realizing how tall it was, didn't have enough gear. I brought three useless #4s, only two #5s, and neglected the use for my #6s, and left them on the ground. Ended up bailing from the pilar. Dang it. Apr 11, 2016
Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
Small gear as listed for the first half. 3 #5's and 1 #6 will sow up the route just fine. Can be done with 2 #5's and 1 #6. I left a #6 at the crux and dumped 2 #5's for the last 5-60 feet. Awesome route!! And what a view from the chains!

Awesome route!! Oct 7, 2016
Sam Feuerborn
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
This route was put up by myself and Skyelar Congdon. Chacha Poya is the route to the left of it, sharing anchors but traversing the ledge into some broken hand cracks and the arching crack. I believe Brandon Gottung just did a direct start to this line and maybe added a bolt? Oct 25, 2016
Michael Hasson
Sausalito, CA
Michael Hasson   Sausalito, CA
I got a 6 stuck on this route about a month ago -- if anyone manages to get it out and feels like sending it back my way that'd be wonderful! May 7, 2017