Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan Gettmann, Gavin Ferguson, Lucas Hodgen 10/09/08
Page Views: 2,802 total · 23/month
Shared By: Gavin Ferguson on Oct 14, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

A few thin moves down low to gain the top of the block....and it's hands and big hands to the anchor. Some small loose blocks were removed at the start. The remaining blocks seem to be quite solid. There is a small ledge about half way up that still has some rocks chillin' on it.

Location

The route is approx. 100 yards to the left of Excuse Station. Look for the nice looking corner. It has a few wedged blocks at the start of it. Where the hand crack ends there is a seam that continues through some wavy roofs, the anchor is located to the left of the crack at this point. There is a plaque at the base.

Protection

Gear is #.5 camalot to #3 camalot, mostly #2's and #3's. The anchors are located to the left of the crack where it ends. The chains are visible from the ground (start).

Photos

Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Just a heads up that the starting blocks may not be super solid, definitely take care. My partner was standing on the lowest block and it started to shift downwards an inch or so at a time with a terrible crunching sound until he was able to climb off of it. Not what you want when you're above a ledge with little gear. The top of the climb is awesome though, and well worth the effort. Oct 9, 2014
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
yeah, i thought this one was kind of spooky also. it is really hard not to use the block and it would be bad for the belayer and leader both if it popped. Oct 10, 2014
Keith W
  5.9
Keith W  
  5.9
The blocks seemed solid when i did this yesterday. The top section is good quality climbing. Worth the walk over for me. Apr 17, 2017