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Routes in Reservoir Wall
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3 Chumps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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[Redacted] T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Act Your Age T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chachapoya T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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David's Second Movement T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Feel the Funkness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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From Switzerland With Love T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Frosted Flakes T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kelley Route 28 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kelley Route 29 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kelley Route 41 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Less Than Zero T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Merry Cherry T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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On Look T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sea of Heartbreak T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slot Machine T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sumo T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trust it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Will-Mento T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Coleman Blakeslee the 3rd |
| Page Views: | 938 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Sydnor on Nov 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed.
Details
This area is currently listed as a "raptor avoidance area". It is not a closure, but if you see the birds it is asked that you avoid the area. See the main page and/or contact the BLM for further details. Thanks.
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldnt be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you dont want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This area is currently listed as a "raptor avoidance area". It is not a closure, but if you see the birds it is asked that you avoid the area. See the main page and/or contact the BLM for further details. Thanks.
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldnt be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you dont want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This area is currently listed as a "raptor avoidance area". It is not a closure, but if you see the birds it is asked that you avoid the area. See the main page and/or contact the BLM for further details. Thanks.
Description
"Here's to the sunny slopes of long ago"
Coleman found a great route, hidden amongst all the other classics. A flare with features out left brings you to a stance on a pedestal. A brief section of off-fingers takes you through narrowing fingers into the crux; a bouldery section of just-less-than-tips, protected by small cams. After another brief rest, more tips that quickly open back to fingers, finishing with thin hands. Very nice, crisp crack climbing on bullet stone with lots of beautiful lichen. Sickness!
Coleman found a great route, hidden amongst all the other classics. A flare with features out left brings you to a stance on a pedestal. A brief section of off-fingers takes you through narrowing fingers into the crux; a bouldery section of just-less-than-tips, protected by small cams. After another brief rest, more tips that quickly open back to fingers, finishing with thin hands. Very nice, crisp crack climbing on bullet stone with lots of beautiful lichen. Sickness!
Photos
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