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Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,263 total, 12/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

An enduro fest! This route is 140' long so bring two ropes. This route is located about 20 yards to the right of Pente. It tackles a funky wide start (maybe a #5 camalot if you haul it up there but you can get aliens behind the flake a little ways off the ground) followed by a section of thin hands, to perfect hands over a roof, to wide hands for a long ways up the right facing dihedral. A funky wigglin' section caps the route (big gear not necessary).

Protection

Lots of hand sized pieces ranging from #2 Friend through #3 Camalot. An Alien or two may be helpful for psychological pro behind the loose flake about 10' off the ground.

Photos

Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
  5.11b/c
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
  5.11b/c
#6 for the bottom. At least 4-5 BD #1's (I brought 5 #1's and was happy with the decision) for the +40ft thin hands section after the offwidth. 4-5 BD #2's and 4-5 BD #3's. No need for a BD #4. This route is non stop with a decent rest just before the roof and then a decent rest 20 feet after pulling the roof. A 70 gets you down with stretch - tie knots in both ends. If rapping from the rings, swing left and do a short rap to the chains on the alternate finish (5.12 finish). Rapping from the 5.12 finish anchors will get you to the ground safely with a 70 meter rope.

Definite step up from Pente. Oct 7, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
70m barely got me to the ground. This is a pretty involved climb, my favorite part was from the roof to the end. I felt like the roof pinched into a tight 2 Camalots to saggy #1 Camalots when you pull it.... but maybe I was just beat. I would say a # 6 is necessary unless that OW looks easy to you. #4 camalot can be used at the top, but only if you barely make it that far. Sep 9, 2015
Gary N
Durango, CO
  5.11c
Gary N   Durango, CO
  5.11c
No more blocks and/or flake right off the ground in the wide section. Still nice and dirty though. I placed a #6 Camalot to protect this section.

This route is exactly 35m long. Our 70m made it back to the ground, but the knot at the end of the rope was against the belay device. Tie a knot in the end of the rope if using a 70m!

Fun, interesting, and diverse route. Not an easy 5.11, as Tony B stated earlier, but certainly not runout. Apr 1, 2013
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
climbed this in fall '11, great route. Got on it again ( march '12 ) and the blocks 10ft off the ground are SUPER loose. Be careful. Mar 18, 2012
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Fantastic route! Great for smaller mits. Our 70 m did not reach the ground - bring double ropes. Mar 23, 2009
Stefanie Van Wychen
Denver, CO
Stefanie Van Wychen   Denver, CO
This is a great route. I personally thought the opening moves were really easy - no wide technique necessary - but I did see people in our party making this section look really hard. You can get a good sideways undercling fingerlock (I won't tell you where, but you'll figure it out) - even for big fingered people - if you pull out on it as you're stepping up, your fingers lock tight, and you can high step onto the good feet and get finger locks in the back on the left............. I thought the top was strenuous, I layed back most of the wide part with the good edge, as my hands were too small for fists and I wasn't into stacking.. Sep 18, 2006
Rob T  
70 m barely gets you down w/ stretch. Sep 11, 2006
Joe Auer
Moab, Utah
5.11b
Joe Auer   Moab, Utah
5.11b
Pulling the roof is not as tough as it looks. this route keeps coming at you. excellent variety for a splitter crack. May seem not as classic with Pente and Slot Machine so close by, but definitely worthy. Apr 18, 2005
Rob Dillon  
 
The widening splitter through the bulge just left of the route at mid-height is rad, and doesn't get wide like the top of WW. A cool step across accesses good hands. Natham Martin put this one up, or so I heard. I don't think this makes the route any harder, but you won't need anything bigger than a 3.5F for it either...

I recall this having a plaque as of '04 or so? Oct 1, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Survey says.... This route is 125' long.
The hardest single move for me was the OW at the bottom, which was awkward to get up. The chockstones at the back dumped sand when I tried to use them.

After placing a "psychological" piece (psycho-illogical, maybe) behind the flake, where the height was becomeing questionably dangerous, the moves back off to 5.9+ until good gear can be had. Call this route 5.11 (solid, sustained) and 5.9+ R. Apr 18, 2002
This route is super cool. Keep looking into the crack on the way up and you will see some amazing crystal formations. Gorgeous. Nov 30, 2001