Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,005 total · 76/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 18, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

217 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: RAPTOR AVOIDANCE. Also, Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details


This route is on the far right end of Reservoir Wall. It is way down past Left, Right, and Middle Cracks until you are around the corner and facing Scarface Wall.

Continue walking the cliff line past a large dirty depression/scoop of loose tiny rock chips (much like a talus cone) and back up onto boulders again. Perhaps 100 meters or so later, you will reach a fabulous looking, left-facing corner with an outward facing crack in it. It is just as good as it looks.

David Bloom writes in his book that this climb would be as popular as Incredible Hand Crack if it was not such a long approach, and having done it, I agree. It is just as good and not crowded, nor "used up."

Lower or rap with a 60M rope, but BE CAREFUL! The climb appears to be just about 100'


A run of cams from 2"-3" Heavy on the 2.5"


Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
In my opinion, this definitely deserves to be on the Best of the Creek list. As it was for me, this is a great route for those who are trying to break into leading sustained Indian Creek 5.10s, but don't necessraily want to do it in front of the masses at Supercrack/Donnely. I believe there is also a decent short 9+/10- route about 60 feet to the right.

However, from what I've heard, folks at the ranch have asked that climbers not climb on the reservoir side of Reservoir Wall (and also Tricks Wall). I think its more of an aesthetic thing for them, where that part of Reservoir is in plain view of the ranch. Someone who knows the situation better than I could probably give better info. In any case, so as to maintain a good relationship between climbers and local landowners, it is probably best to abide by their wishes. Apr 25, 2005
Jesse Ryan
Jesse Ryan  
Superb. I'd echo on the quality, merit, and certainly recommend the line to anyone even beginning to work into the ten grade at the creek. I'd suggest at least one each at 1 and 1.5 sized friend for the first part of the pitch. Sep 19, 2005
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
Damn good route. My 70 had a plenty left in it once I lowered, I think a 60 would work. Nov 29, 2005
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
A 60m rope works but make sure to knot the ends just to be safe. May want to bring some new webbing to leave at the anchor. I climbed this back in november of 05 and it was looking pretty weathered and sunbaked. Mar 13, 2006
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
Surprised nobody mentioned it yet...as of Fall 2005 there was a heinous death block about 25 feet up the climb (approx. 6 feet x 4 feet) that easily wobbled. I found it impossible to avoid without placing a gold Camalot above it and yarding on the cam. There was lots of chalk behind this block - please think twice before manteling on this beast. Nov 21, 2006
Salt Lake City, UT
Wavey   Salt Lake City, UT
70 meter rope gets you down from this excellent dihedral. Mar 26, 2007
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
re: death block; if I am thinking of what you are thinking (the top of the pillar at the base of the crack proper), it is not that loose or sketchy by desert standards. I wouldn't place gear behind it, but if you know how to climb softly on your toes, and not pull straight out (a valuable skill in the desert) you should be fine. Nov 8, 2007
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
The “deathblock” is the top section of a huge wedge-shaped column at the start. There’s a crack suggesting it’s separated from the main column, maybe 8 feet (?) from the apex. The width at that point is over an arm-span, and probably as deep. I’d guess the thing probably weighs over two tons and is quite stable on the rest of the column. I’d worry about the giant detached pillars up top suddenly falling long before I’d worry about this thing. I'd place gear behind it, I'd yard on it - you're not moving that thing with a 20 foot crowbar. Sep 29, 2008
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
Mitch Musci   Estes Park, CO
In regards to my comment on the death block...I remember pulling on the top of it when I first encountered it and the whole thing moved about an inch outward. My partner and I even considered trundling it at the time but left it alone figuring 1. its part of the desert climbing experience and 2. it would have made a TON of noise. Perhaps since then it has settled into a more stable position? Hard to say, and I'm glad other people feel it's safer than I made it out to be because this is a killer route. Oct 4, 2008
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Much better than Incredible Hand Crack Nov 6, 2008
Timmamok *
Timmamok *   none
Anyone who thinks this is 10+ ought to go and climb The Wave at Supercrack for a good 10+ reference. Both are 4 star climbs. Mar 11, 2010
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Every bit as good as the hype! a 60m rope barely gets back to teh ground with a little trickery... a 70 would be better Mar 31, 2010
EldoFiend   WY
Be really, really, careful if you climb this thing with a 60m rope. We had to help some guy down the scree field who got dropped about ten feet because they forgot to tie a knot in the end. That is not how you want to end your trip. Apr 1, 2010
Princess Mia
Princess Mia   Vail
Super awesome!!! Well worth the long hike....... Feb 29, 2012
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
Amazing perfect hands. be conscious placing gear right below the roof as it can walk in easily. Apr 9, 2015
Nick Black
Arcata, CA
Nick Black   Arcata, CA
way better than IHC, the hike is not all that long. My favorite route so far at the creek! Didn't notice any death block, but maybe I've been climbing too may mud towers...:) Apr 18, 2016
Stellar. Perfect hands forever. If you want hand crack, climb this. Placed (Camalots) 7x 2's and 3x 3's, as well as a 0.75 and a 0.5. Maybe even a 1 for the pillar at the start. The pump is pretty real at the top, too. Jun 30, 2016
Garrett R.
Garrett R.   Colorado
Not really note-worthy, don't bother to walk all the way over there, nothing to see here folks. Oct 19, 2016
I'm not sure this Warm-Up Handcrack the best name for such a classic climb. I suggest we change the name to Jammin' Jammin' Jammin' Jammin'. Any takers? Apr 26, 2017
At the start of this route, someone has drawn a large dick on the rock with chalk as of 11/6/17. It should go without saying that this type of thing is not cool. Nov 8, 2017
Alex Temus
Alex Temus   Utah
Way long approach for the Creek, but not too bad compared to most crags. South-facing (unlike most at this wall), so best to do this as a "warm-up" (buh-dah tss!) in the morning, then shady routes in the mid-afternoon.

Fanatic route! Straight-forward splitter, very similar to incredible hand crack in style (left-facing dihedral with a bit of a roof in the middle and a couple rests throughout), but possibly a little easier due to a less-severe roof. Just as good, not sure how you could get two more-similar routes.

So good!!! Oct 28, 2018