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Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,352 total · 18/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Short route and short crux with a bad size.

A thin hair harder than Middle Crack. (11d/12a)

Funky face moves with thin pro to a flare and splitter fingers which starts out perfect but gets loose quickly...Keep your muscles tight! (12a/b)

Protection [Suggest Change]

Blue - Yellow Aliens are nice at the start, (2-3) Purple - Green Camalots

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EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
At the crux of this climb there is a terrifying set of 1/4" deep track marks in the crack where a cam pulled out. Apr 1, 2010
Why this gets low stars is beyond me . . . the finish is a combination of bouldering, rattles, and pure power. One of the better finger cracks in the area! Feb 8, 2012
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
Anchors are all steel now. Mar 18, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
The crux is really steep, very rattly, and super burly. My friend barely scraped by the crux with feet skating. Using some of the face features around the crux helped tremendously. Apr 11, 2016
Very bouldery and very fun! Apr 27, 2017
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.12-
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.12-
Short and sweet. For me, this one feels a bit easier than Middle Crack.

Rack: (2) blue metolius, (2) .4, (4-5) .5, (1) .75. I only used the .75 at the very top after the bulge, couldn't even really shove a red metolius in down lower. Oct 23, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.12b
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.12b
Also sequential....12b
Game on off the ramp Dec 31, 2017

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