Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,400 total · 17/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Aug 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

Short route and short crux with a bad size.

A thin hair harder than Middle Crack. (11d/12a)

Funky face moves with thin pro to a flare and splitter fingers which starts out perfect but gets loose quickly...Keep your muscles tight! (12a/b)

Protection

Blue - Yellow Aliens are nice at the start, (2-3) Purple - Green Camalots

Photos

EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
At the crux of this climb there is a terrifying set of 1/4" deep track marks in the crack where a cam pulled out. Apr 1, 2010
Why this gets low stars is beyond me . . . the finish is a combination of bouldering, rattles, and pure power. One of the better finger cracks in the area! Feb 8, 2012
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
Trevor Bowman   Flagstaff, AZ
Anchors are all steel now. Mar 18, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
The crux is really steep, very rattly, and super burly. My friend barely scraped by the crux with feet skating. Using some of the face features around the crux helped tremendously. Apr 11, 2016
Very bouldery and very fun! Apr 27, 2017
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.12-
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.12-
Short and sweet. For me, this one feels a bit easier than Middle Crack.

Rack: (2) blue metolius, (2) .4, (4-5) .5, (1) .75. I only used the .75 at the very top after the bulge, couldn't even really shove a red metolius in down lower. Oct 23, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.12b
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.12b
Also sequential....12b
Game on off the ramp Dec 31, 2017