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Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bryan Gilmore and John Varco circa 1999
Page Views: 598 total, 12/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Sep 30, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Looking for some adventure, and wanna get off the deck? This thing climbs more like a tower than any mundane splitter you'll find at the base. Kind of like the big brother to Neutron Dance.

20 ft right of Middle Crack lies a pile of choss. Pick the cleanest 5.8 path up the bottom portion, and step into a short finger crack. Climb up this till you find yourself at the bottom of a short 5.8 ow. Climb this and step left and you'll be at the bottom of a 40ft squeeze. Squirm up here to the top, and belay at 2 Metolius rap hangers.

From here the route is obvious as it ascends the splitter big hands to fist crack. Climb this bad boy up and squeeze through a few pods at the top and belay on a sloping ledge with 2 bolts.

There is a hand crack on the right side of this ledge that continues up, but we did not take the opportunity to venture further.

Location

The start is 20 feet right of Middle Crack, and the second pitch is the splitter directly above. Can't miss it!

Protection

Single set from .3-#1, 2x #2, 4-5 #3 & #4, Single #5. New Camalot Sizes.

Photos

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Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10+
Just climbed this and went to the rim. The last pitch is about 60' long and mostly hands with a wide piece or two. There is no anchor on the top but we were able to run the rope around a large boulder directly above the 2nd pitch anchor. Just make sure that whoever raps first checks to see if the rope will pull before the second person raps down. Sep 11, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Bryan did you guys take it to the rim? I assume you did. Mar 19, 2014
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
FA: Bryan Gilmore and John Varco circa 1999 or 2000 Mar 18, 2014
There IS a good anchor on the second pitch, on a big ledge above some dirty squeeze chimney climbing with sketchy chockstones.

The p1 chimney is pretty fun and can be climbed utilizing a hand crack (that forms the second pitch). The wide-hands crack on p2 is really great climbing.

However the chimneys and flares above that are pretty nasty, hard, unaesthetic climbing. Maybe my experience was colored by not being sure whether there was an anchor above, but I definitely wish there were bolts at the end of the hand crack. Nov 12, 2013