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Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Hong (?)
Page Views: 3,339 total, 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 18, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A must do route to be sure. Fun, well protected, high quality. Great moves and perfect stone most of the way. Sustained, but beatable with technique. You can arrive at the chains without a pump if you pay attention to the features, but this is a great route for technicians or thugs alike.

To find this route, first locate "Warm-Up Handcrack" (see this site) and then backtrack to a HUGE left-facing corner that starts 17meters up and continues for another 45 meters to some anchors. These are not immediately apparent from the ground. There is a light-brown slab that rises up and to the right against the base of this route from which to start in a good looking set of cracks in that wall.

Climb up the slab and cast off onto the first pitch 5.9(?) placing a few cams in the right-facing crack and corner- clip the single bolt (no chain or webbing) and add gear to belay, or continue into the business. You are now in a massive right-facing corner with an outward-pointing crack, which offers mostly very good jams. Space your cams wisely, push them up, leap-frog them, etc... when you pass the fist blind bulge, you have 20 meters left to go. Three meters from the top you will reach a bump in the crack that goes right, this takes some large TCUs (1-2") and might help alleviate the high demand on your 2.5" pieces... place the TCUs and finish the climb.

Rap on two 60 meter lines. Watch out for loose rock when pulling your rope, should it happen to catch on a ledge on the way down. We pulled a head-sized block off accidentally and had to dodge it.

Protection

The racks are per pitch- but the climb can be combined into one monster lead.P1- a few cams each 2"-3" and a few small TCU's to back up the sngle bolt belay.P2- Got red & gold camalots? Good- 150' to go. 2.5" are about perfect for most of the way (loose red, tight gold) and a few 3" or even 3.5" can be placed to suppliment.The crux "bump" (tiny roof) can fit gear 1"-2", so take a few large TCU's and save a few cams for the rest of the route.!!!Rapping off REQUIRES two 60M ropes!!!

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
FA Steve Hong. Really nice, sustained mostly #1 crack. A bit sandy and a full 60m long. Oct 9, 2017
slim

  5.11-
slim    
  5.11-
this is a really long route, probably close to 180 feet or so. mostly excellent, but there are a couple sections with rock that isn't great. really heavy on the thin hands (#1 camalots and/or 2.5 friends). i could see 10+ or 11-, either way, but went with 11- due to the sheer length. Nov 28, 2011
alpinista83
San Francisco, CA
alpinista83   San Francisco, CA
There is still a good deal of loose rock on the ledges. Be mindful of your partner below and when you pull the ropes. We carried down a snow globe sized piece with us that was waiting to launch near the top. The finishing stance is good; I'd recommend belaying from the anchor.

No definitive crux. If you're comfortable walking gear, you can safely get away with 200 feet of quality climbing without taking multiple racks of reds and golds. 5 #1s, 4 #2s (with the other Bloom gear beta) was sufficient. One .4 bd came in handy halfway, but nothing smaller. Rope drag was not an issue. I only used a runner on a piece or two.

Doesn't look like the route gets much traffic. The jumble above should not deter you from jumping on this thing. If you enjoy tight 2s, you will be psyched that you climbed this! Dec 22, 2010
Courtney Pace   Sandy
One of the finest routes i've done at the creek. Take all your #1's. Mar 18, 2010
It's right of the 'Warm-up Handcrack', and really good. Also marked by a Hong bolt. Apr 13, 2006