Skank on the Hanglow
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.08284, -109.56274 |
| FA: | Brendan O'Fallon, 2004 |
| Page Views: | 2,877 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 18, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
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RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldnt be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you dont want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
Description
To find this route continue left on Resevior Wall past the Pente area perhaps 150 meters to a route facing right in some semi-parallel cracks (Skank on the Hanglow, a new route with a slate at the bottom). The bottom of this route is a a light brown rock with some lichen and features, only the last 10' is in classic varnished windgate. No matter, it is a fun climb.
Go up the runout start (5.7 desert climbing) to reach a protectable flake and then a 4-5" crack. Take a red Camalot for placing in an awkward crack-in-a-pod when you are just starding to wonder if you are safe. You will know when to use it.
The wide crack progresses upward, getting narrower the whole time. After some distance is gained, you can step left and get between that and a second crack with perfect hand-jams. Both cracks are climbable and protectable.
Continue up to where you are deposited on parallel windgate cracks, the left one being a wider awkward pod and the right one being a narrowing splitter. Stem, jam, and lock through this crux to the anchors.
A good route, and a little atypical of Indian creek.



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