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Routes in Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 2,428 total, 20/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Starts off-fingers, to a short tips section, to good fingers, to a welcome left rest ledge. After that, gun it up ten feet of good offset fingers with no feet (crux). The final 15-20 feet of this route are really cool moves through some breaks and over a little roof, not hard, but very unusual for the Creek.

Location

Right where the wall moves from north-facing to west-facing. It is very hard to miss– look for a fingers, off-fingers offset splitter just to the right of an arete. You can't see the anchors, they are just over the roof.

Protection

friends sizes: (1).5, (4).75, (4)1, (2)1.5

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
Anchor is now tat free. Chains on the two original drilled angles, which still look decent. A newer 1/2 bolt has links on it. Mar 18, 2015
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
Route name is Finger Food, F.A. Jay Smith. Oct 24, 2013
This route is identifiable by the 'V.XI' etched into the rock at the base of the route in place of a plaque. Personally, I suggest that this route be called 'The Roman Route' or something to that effect for this reason. I thought it was one of the coolest climbs at Res Wall. The proximity of the arete and the breaks make it really interesting. Unfortunately I mistook this route for Flesh and Bone 5.11- and so my rack was way off, but I remember BD .75s in the beginning, to .5s to .4s and several blue metolius sized pieces needed for the thin cruxy part. A #2 friend would fit perfectly in the base of the crack after the final break. Apr 1, 2013
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
is there any other guide book that gives you such precise gear beta? Is there any other climbing area that you can simply look at the climb, and get the all the gear beta on you're own? Probably not. It may as well be sport climbing that goes clean at C1. This climb is great though, hint: use the arete. Aug 12, 2012
5.11? Gurka felt substantially easier than this. 20 feet of yellow/blue master cam with terrible/no feet.... Apr 2, 2012
Onsighted Left Crack . . . got my ass handed to me on this. Oh I LOVE the Creek. Feb 8, 2012
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
Man- if you even bother to look at the crack before casting off you would see the gear beta in the guide is off. Take responsibility for yourself. Nov 7, 2011
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Yet another fantastic pitch at the Creek without a name.

I ran into the same issue with inaccurate pro beta from the guidebook.

I do not however hold that against the guidebook author. As far as I'm concerned, the guy did everyone a great favor by taking the time and energy to write the book. Is it perfect? No. But right now it's all we have and that's tons better than what we had before (basically nothing). I do however commend the previous guidebook author (Marco C.) since again, nobody else stepped up to do it.

Indian Creek has become one of the most popular climbing destinations in the country. It needs a guidebook to maintain some degree of order. Maybe some of the folks who've been climbing there since before it became such a destination resent the presence of the masses at IC and hold resentment towards the guidebook and its author because it symbolizes that the it's no longer their personal crag. I'm not sure what everyone's deal is and why the new guide is so maligned on these climbing websites.

I just know the author put a bunch of time and energy into that guide. He is not getting rich from it either. Cut him some slack. If you don't like the book, don't bitch about it on the internet. Write your own. Mar 30, 2008
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11
This is a really fun pitch with some cool moves off the arete and a nice section of splitter fingers. Nov 12, 2007
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
 
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
 
I must also say that this is another climb in which the almighty authority David Bloom messes up gear beta in his guidebook. In this case, he omits the necessity of a .5 friend (blue TCU, .3 camalot), which is really nice to have about thirty feet up, just above the first horizontal break. Hell, you may even want a purple TCU if you really want to sew it up.

cheers
Paul Nelson Nov 9, 2007