Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,438 total · 13/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

Two pitches. The second pitch is a beautiful hands to tight hands to big fingers splitter. The first pitch is a "tower" type pitch with wiggling behind pillars and such. Not too bad. Worth doing to get to P2.

P1- 5.10 110'. Book says 5.9, but the last part feels pretty hard and the whole thing is squirelly and a bit run. I can only imagine somebody saying "Gosh, honey, the book says its only 5.9, why don't you lead it." Then watching their relationship being ripped asunder by yet another big hands to fist totter-fest.

P2- 5.11+ 70'. Use to be called 12-, book says 5.11. If Pente is 5.11, then this is a little harder.

Location

On the prow of The Reservoir between sun and shade.

Protection

P1- Variety on the bigger end. Bring a #5 camalot. Save a couple #3 camalots for last part to the ledge.

P2- Hands to tight hands to big fingers.
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
  5.11+
Sam Feuerborn   Carbondale
  5.11+
The anchor on the second pitch should be evaluated by future parties. I was up there last weekend and it's looking like some pretty faded tat on some pretty sharp hangers. I didn't have any extra webbing on me but just a heads up to future parties. Sweet climb though. Nov 16, 2010
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
  5.11+
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
  5.11+
Yeah...P1 is solid .10
And rope mgmt is important Dec 30, 2017
Steph Abegg
Bellingham, WA
Steph Abegg   Bellingham, WA
Pitch 1 requires some big cams. We had 2 #3's, 1 #4, 2 #5's, and 1 #6, and I used them all and was pretty comfortable. Save the #6 and a #3 for the final offwidth. Sep 16, 2018