Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Sumo

5.10, Trad, TR, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 23 votes
FA: Skyeler Congdon and Sam Feuerborn (probable earlier ascents)
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. DetailsDrop down

The Climb

A great offwidth line. Get warm as you jog up a low angle corner with a hand crack. You then reach a wedged pillar of surprisingly solid rock. Twin cracks on the sides of the pillar lead to a wide slot. Pick a side and slither in, working your way up until you get into #5 BD sized crack. Wrestle this crack through a grunty offset #5 bulge, followed by more #5 crack to a wide pod. Catch your breath for a second before the final "sprint" to the anchors. 50 feet or so of #5 C4 leads you to good bolts and chains.

A 70m reportedly gets you down with stretch. My 60m definitely did not. Be careful when lowering your ropes for the rappel as they could become stuck behind the pillar.

Where?

15 yards left of Pente. Look for the long splitter OW up high.

What to bring?

for C4s
#1 x 1
#2 x 2
#3 x 3
#5 x 2 to 4 depending on your tolerance for pushing them
#6 x 1 (could do without but it made me feel warm and fuzzy)

Gear Sling

70m cord

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.
Shelton before the fight with the wide
[Hide Photo] Shelton before the fight with the wide

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] 70m just reaches.

And indeed be careful with the rope on rap. Might be better to saddlebag rather than throw. I had a rope end fall back behind the pillar and get stuck. Luckily got it free after messing with it and ascending back up a ways to get well above and pull it straight up. Oct 20, 2014
[Hide Comment] I got up to the offwidth roof, not realizing how tall it was, didn't have enough gear. I brought three useless #4s, only two #5s, and neglected the use for my #6s, and left them on the ground. Ended up bailing from the pilar. Dang it. Apr 11, 2016
Big Bert
Birmingham, AL
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Small gear as listed for the first half. 3 #5's and 1 #6 will sow up the route just fine. Can be done with 2 #5's and 1 #6. I left a #6 at the crux and dumped 2 #5's for the last 5-60 feet. Awesome route!! And what a view from the chains!

Awesome route!! Oct 7, 2016
Sam Feuerborn
Carbondale
 
[Hide Comment] This route was put up by myself and Skyelar Congdon. Chacha Poya is the route to the left of it, sharing anchors but traversing the ledge into some broken hand cracks and the arching crack. I believe Brandon Gottung just did a direct start to this line and maybe added a bolt? Oct 25, 2016
Skyeler Congdon
Western Slope
  5.10
[Hide Comment] For historical note, when Sam and I climbed this line in 2011, we thought we were making a first ascent, but where the modern anchor we put in is located, I had actually found a VERY shitty old tat anchor... possibly the worst, sketchiest gear I've seen in the desert! It was a medium nut and an original BD #1 equalized with completely faded webbing...it looked at least 25+ years old. It was actually in the crack we (re)named "Chachapoya" slightly to the left. It wasn't clear if this was suppose to be a shitty anchor for what we (re)named "Sumo" or (what seemed more likely) a bail/rap anchor left by a team descending from the top of the wall. If anyone has a recollection of how this tat anchor got here, please let us know! Jan 23, 2020
Daniel Kay
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Crack takes a #6 just fine up to the roof, save your #5s for after. There is an extremely loose boulder (microwave-sized) on top of the pillar next to this crack -- be very careful both on the way up and the way down. It needs to be trundled. Oct 10, 2023