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Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 310 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on May 13, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The blocks that you have to use at the start look dreadful but they seemed pretty solid as of this posting. They definitely won't stay that way forever though so climb it while you can.

The rest of the route is a solid left facing corner from .75 to #2.

Location [Suggest Change]

First route left of Left Crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

One each .4 & .5, 2 or 3 each .75 to #2 and a #5 is nice to have to protect the bottom section. All Camalots.

The anchor consists of a pin and something tied off in the crack. Could be a stopper or might just be a wedged piece of rock?

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Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10+
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.10+
Fun face moves on so-so rock to a nice widening hand crack in a left-facing flare.

I placed a #9 stopper sideways to protect the first moves; a finger-sized cam would probably work fine too. Then single .4 and .5, triples .75-2, and a single #3 was nice near the top. You can also place a small cam (.3-.4) just after the traverse left.

Anchor is a drilled angle out left and a fixed hex in the crack. This route could really use two new bolts; for now bring webbing.

Also, this is no longer the first route left of Left Crack. There's now another blocky (5.10ish?) route in between Dreadasaurus and Left Crack. Oct 23, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Great moves, good rock, hard for the grade...
Fixed hex/ piton anchor needs replacing Dec 30, 2017

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