Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 341 total · 8/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on May 13, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description

The blocks that you have to use at the start look dreadful but they seemed pretty solid as of this posting. They definitely won't stay that way forever though so climb it while you can.

The rest of the route is a solid left facing corner from .75 to #2.

Location

First route left of Left Crack.

Protection

One each .4 & .5, 2 or 3 each .75 to #2 and a #5 is nice to have to protect the bottom section. All Camalots.

The anchor consists of a pin and something tied off in the crack. Could be a stopper or might just be a wedged piece of rock?

Photos

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Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10+
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.10+
Fun face moves on so-so rock to a nice widening hand crack in a left-facing flare.

I placed a #9 stopper sideways to protect the first moves; a finger-sized cam would probably work fine too. Then single .4 and .5, triples .75-2, and a single #3 was nice near the top. You can also place a small cam (.3-.4) just after the traverse left.

Anchor is a drilled angle out left and a fixed hex in the crack. This route could really use two new bolts; for now bring webbing.

Also, this is no longer the first route left of Left Crack. There's now another blocky (5.10ish?) route in between Dreadasaurus and Left Crack. Oct 23, 2017
Matt Pesce
moab, ut.
 
Matt Pesce   moab, ut.
 
Great moves, good rock, hard for the grade...
Fixed hex/ piton anchor needs replacing Dec 30, 2017