Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 16,114 total · 75/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on May 24, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details


This is one of the best thin hand cracks at Indian Creek. From Pente walk left along the base of the wall for about 200-300 yards. Find the obvious splitter with a left facing dihedral immediately to the right (No Excuse- funky 5.10++). The route starts off as perfect, cruiser thin hands (maybe a bit strenuous for fatter handed folks) to a good rest below the crux final 15' of the route. The crux involves tough ring locks with some features for feet. The route is maybe 90' and can easily be done with one 60m rope.


A mess of #1 Camalots (or 2 and 2.5 friends), as well as a couple .75 camalots (maybe a .5 too) for the crux at the top. A #2 camalot was barely too big to fit.
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
One 60m rope barely got me to the ledge at the base of the route. It's very very close, but just makes it. Jun 6, 2004
electric lady land
d-know   electric lady land
relentless vertical tight hands forever. my hands were crampin up! Jan 26, 2006
Danny Inman
Danny Inman   Arvada
soooooo good. I originally went down on this end to do No Excuse, but when I saw this beauty I could not resist. May 1, 2006
Brian Weinstein
Brian Weinstein  
Wow. Take the time to walk the extra 20 minutes to this pitch. Wow! Sep 23, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Great climb, the smaller your hands, the better. I found it not to technical, but enduro- maybe hard for the grade. Oct 25, 2007
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
As with most Indian Creek routes it's easy for the grade if you know how to jam. Maybe 11a if you don't wear tape gloves. Mar 17, 2008
Rob L
Durango, CO
Rob L   Durango, CO
sweet route, definitely worth the hike down to it, especially when combined with its neighbor No Excuse. I'd recommend saving a .75 camalot for the end Apr 11, 2008
Awesome splitter, folks with meaty hands should expect it to be hard!! If not, then I guess you don't have an excuse....

I would expect ratings to be all over the 5.11 map for this one. Excellent example of a crack route where hand & even foot size can make a huge difference in difficulty. If your hands fit well enough your not going to find this route particularly hard but if they don't, depending on how bad they fit, be ready for a tough send!!

The smooth 25 foot section with no face holds to work with after the first 15 feet will be the crux for folks with bigger hands and the top 10 may be the crux for others. The crack opens a little in the middle & upper section and the closes down some at the top. At least at the top you have a small dihedral system to work with and layback a bit off of with your feet. Sep 30, 2008
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Another one of those ultimate classics. If you like this size /style you won't find a better route anywhere! Take a LOT of #1s.

CL Oct 27, 2008
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
You can get in two very tight golds in the middle of this climb, so you don't need a million reds. but 7 is nice. Nov 6, 2008
Moab, UT
Jclimb   Moab, UT
This route is longer than 90'. A 60 barely makes it depending on where you belay. Tie a knot in the end of your rope. A 70 is recommended. Sep 20, 2010
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Is this part of the Reservoir Wall okay to climb on? Feb 1, 2012
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
The ban only comes into effect when the birds move into the nest... thats usually late March or early April. The FOIC will try and keep you posted as to when this happens. BTW, thanks for asking. Following this ban really helps with access to the other cliffs. Feb 1, 2012
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Thanks Sam! Feb 1, 2012
Princess Mia
Princess Mia   Vail
This is probably one of the best routes I have ever done in my life. So long, and so sustained, .75 and #1 cams forever. Feb 29, 2012
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
If you're decent at thin hands, it's not bad. Not really #1s for most of it. After the first few feet it's 2.5 friends and tight #2s all the way until it pinches down at the very end. Way easier than No Excuse IMO. Mar 26, 2012
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Don't know if its wear from traffic, but a couple tight #2 C4s fit fine before the upper #0.75 section. Nov 5, 2014
Sara Campbell
Berkeley, CA
Sara Campbell   Berkeley, CA
If you have small hands (BD #1) and feet, get on this beautiful splitter! I found it easier than cupping and fisting a lot of the 5.10 "hand" cracks. There were even some feet. Mar 28, 2016
B. Smith
Denver, CO
B. Smith   Denver, CO
We brought about 7 cams in the #1 range and could really sew up the bottom and still have more for the top. #2s fit for a while as well and I think we brought about 4-5 of them. The top section was amazing ( walking up a foot rail while laying back the crack). This section was the only spot where I placed .75s and I put in 2 of them and felt very secure. Apr 1, 2017