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Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - Reservoir Wall

Arch Arrival T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Carruthers-Hauser T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cyborg T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Carl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dreadasaurus T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ernie Used to Box T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Excuse Et Moi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Excuse Station T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Food T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
From Switzerland With Love T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Frosted Flakes T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Good Excuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gurka T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karl's Excuse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Less Than Zero T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Lonesome Dove T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Machete T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Marvelous! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mega Bucks T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Middle Crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud dahbber T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ninja T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Excuse T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Overlook, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pat's Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pente T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pirate Treasure T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Raja T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rez Dawgs T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sharka Zulu T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Skank on the Hanglow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slot Machine T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speedy Gonzales T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sumo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trust it T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm-Up Handcrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wigglin' Worm T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Will-Mento T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown offwidth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Steve Hong, 1985
Page Views: 8,274 total · 46/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Sep 27, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details

Description [Edit]

Geologic time includes now! Apparently this thing continues to widen....better hop on it while you can.

Just right of the giant slumped block by Pente, about 25 feet of facey climbing protected by a bolt accesses a long acute dihedral with a tight-hands crack in the back-- the Slot Machine. Exiting the crack at the top is probably the crux, as one is forces to battle rope drag and sandy feet while underclinging around the roof closing off the top of the dihedral. We found the Slot Machine to be sustained and strenuous, but hardly 5.12 as described in the Knapp guide. Placque at base. Good anchors.

Protection [Edit]

Many green juniors or 2" Friends, numerous red camalots, light assorted stuff for the bottom.

Photos

I thought 12a was the consensus. Again, and always, the desert fits everyone differently. Dec 2, 2003
5.11? If Slot Machine is 5.11, then Pente is 5.10. This climb definitetly deserves a 5.12- rating if only for the pump factor. Dec 3, 2003
Josh Beck
  5.11d
Josh Beck  
  5.11d
Awesome route. Hard 5.11. No move on the the route harder than 5.10+, the business is probably endurance / tenacity through the .5-.75 terrain. May 1, 2004
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11+
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11+
cool start, hard on the pants.
definately solid 11+.
more technical but less pumpy than quater of a man Jan 26, 2006
misterclimberman
  5.12a
misterclimberman  
  5.12a
i did this thing when it was like 10 degrees, and at that time it felt solid 12-. i dont know if it was the weather. Mar 7, 2006
The protection requirements have changed since part of the leaning pillar broke off. Instead of a ton of #1 Camalots, you need maybe 5 #1s and 6 #2s. Also, take a two foot trad draw for the first bolt, then you can protect the first part of the open book with a black Alien, then a 0.3 Camalot, a couple yellow Aliens, a couple red Aliens, maybe 3 0.75 Camalots.

My buddy let me borrow a knee pad for my left knee. Use that and a left knee bar behind your right foot for probably half of the route. Doing that led to a concensus in our group that the route was maybe solid 11 (11c) or so. Apr 11, 2006
The crack is wider now. The pillar is slowly falling away and climbers will notice that their grabers fit into the crack way more than they used to. Aug 1, 2007
mike1  
If you look at the required gear listed in the old guide book it documents that the crack was smaller. Now to easy. Terrible route. I will never do it again. I am going to be presumptious and speak for everyone else and say they should not do it eithier. Aug 15, 2007
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.11+
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.11+
I'll agree with anyone who says 11+ or 12-... with 12- being the high range of what I have ever been comfortable leading at the creek, and I thought this was tough in 2004. If it has broken, such is the way of sandstone, I hope people play lightly in the desert, even the stones are fragile. Feb 17, 2008
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
We arrived at the res wall one day to hear the sound of sand flowing down the back of this route... and then we didn't climb it... I wouldn't recommend fissure grippin' this piece of mountain, but despite my better judgment I'll probably do it again. I mean some very unlucky person *might die on this if it fell, but what are the odds it's going to be you?! Mar 12, 2008
Rob Dillon  
 
Yeah, but think of the glory! Oct 12, 2008
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
there is a rumor that the crack has widened to #2 cams? yikes, this wall is falling apart! example: Gurhka's right wall falling off!!! Sep 14, 2009
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
Grade: Definitely in the 11+ range. On this trip I one-hanged Slot Machine along with very, very many routes of various sizes whose ratings are pretty consolidated at 11+.

Gear: The most recent edition of the Bloom guide gives bad gear beta. It says take a bunch (I forget how many) of 2.5s and explicitly states that #1 Camalots work better than 2.5 friends. As stated above, this is wrong and 3 #1s should be adequate followed by as many #2s as you want for 40' of #2s. (note: the #2s were open, but not tipped out and 2.5 friends didn't work anywhere)

Rock: Sounds like there's been some relatively recent geologic activity here. That being said, the rock feels as solid as any other route we did this trip (and definitely more solid than some) and, while it probably will fall of some day (like every rock everywhere) this route is not to be missed despite it. Enjoy. Oct 4, 2010
GabeO
New Haven, CT
  5.11 PG13
GabeO   New Haven, CT
  5.11 PG13
Just an update for spring of 2012 - no change from previous ascent notes. Still starts small and gets up to #2 camalots for the last 35 feet or so. It actually pinches back down to 2.5 friends just before the roof (big #1 camalot). And then if you have the equivalent of a #2.5 camalot, it's nice to protect the roof at the top. As far as grades are concerned, I thought this was way easier than quarter of a man. Stellar route though. Hope it doesn't fall off. Mar 26, 2012
Bones Perkins
Rexburg, ID
  5.11+
Bones Perkins   Rexburg, ID
  5.11+
Whether or not the pillar is pulling away, this is still a noticeably difficult crack. It's not the section that's now the perfect hand size that's even hard anyways. It's the super technical and/or awkward sections before that, e.g., (for me) the C4 0.4-0.5 section in the middle of it all. Oct 7, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Plaque at the bottom says .12-, which was what the FA party gave it. Oct 21, 2013
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
great route. bloom's guide says the grade is extremely hand sized dependent, but i don't really agree. it has everything from tight fingers to biggish hands - everybody will have a good size, and everybody will have a bad size.

really small gear (black, blue alien) to get to the bolt, a few each from tight fingers to off fingers, and fairly heavy on #1 and #2 camalots up at the top.

super fun! Nov 18, 2013
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Just did this thing and there is pretty much 80ft of #2 camalots now. Apr 4, 2016
khoa
Tacomarado
 
khoa   Tacomarado
 
lol yeah make sure to bring some #2s....

80m made it to the ground w/ stretch. Apr 12, 2016
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Didn't find any worthwhile gear getting to the bolt. It's about ~5.10 to clip it so just don't fall. Sep 12, 2016
Alexander K
The road
 
Alexander K   The road
 
As previously mentioned the final 60-80 feet and the roof are all #2 now. I had five and was running it out at least 15-20 feet between them at the end. Bringing 2-3 each of 0.4-1 (definitely bring 3 or more orange metolius or 0.5 camalot sized pieces for the crux section) plus a bunch #2 would be most excellent for this route. Bring a couple of things 0.1-0.3 to protect the initial moves into the slot if you want. An 80m is a little shy for easy toproping (though doable). Tying a cordalette to the end made the whole affair much easier.

Beta Alert: The knee bar rests are excellent and definitely eliminate any grade bump from the pump. Hard to rate the current difficulty of the short crux (5.11a-5.11cish) but if you are bold chimneying may make the grade even easier as my partner demonstrated on TR. If it wasn't clear from the previous comments, it appears the crack is getting wider because the pillar that forms the left side is slowly collapsing, unlike IHC and SC this isn't a particularly high traffic route. Apr 4, 2017
Flynn Mcfarland
Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
Flynn Mcfarland   Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
I would say it does run the whole range of crack sizes(up to #2/#3) and therefore should not necessarily have any favored hand size. A buddy took a whip stepping out to the sandy arete/chains and fell on a baggy #2 below the roof, so the crux could be anywhere for different people.

If you use a knee pad on the knee bars then your obviously going to think its easier. Be HARD and do not use a knee pad if you want to have an authentic experience.

Any gear below the first bolt is mental duct tape and creates drag
Recently was told a block at the entrance of the slot fell out?? Sep 27, 2017

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