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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Elevation: 5,761 ft
GPS: 38.069, -109.55 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 72,106 total · 367/month
Shared By: Jason Wells on Nov 28, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

A great area with a fairly good selection of climbs, with most residing in the 5.11 range. Since it faces due south it gets good sun all day long and is climbable on all but the coldest days - which also means a miserable experience if you go up there when it's hot. While up there, you'll experience some of the best views in the region.

Most of the climbing is bound by two great routes - Black Uhuru on the left and Wavy Gravy (worth the walk) on the right. In between lots of great climbs can be found, including the mega-classic Scarface.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Continue past the Supercrack area for several miles on 211 as it winds its way along the cliffs. The large parking area can be found on the left side of the road just after a sharp left curve that goes into a long straightaway. The lot is several hundred yards before a fence and cattle guard, about a half mile before the reservoir, and a mile or so before the Beef Basin road junction.

Due north from the lot, look up for the prominent buttress gleaming in the sun. Find a good trail across the road and follow it as is dips into a wash before heading up talus to the base. Upon reaching the base, the majority of the climbs can be found on the left.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Scarface

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spam
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5.9
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scar…
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wavy Gravy
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Where's Carruthers?
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Uhuru
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dirt Cheap
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Your Mama
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Guy
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter)
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scarface
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sicilian
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Desert Vuarnet
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spam 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unknown 5.9 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft… 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Wavy Gravy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Where's Carruthers? 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Black Uhuru 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Dirt Cheap 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Your Mama 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Mantel Illness 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Big Guy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Scarface 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Torque Wrench 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Sicilian 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Desert Vuarnet 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
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Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
grk10vq    
!!!LOST!!! : Canon Powershot Camera in a red, white and black christmas sock. Was lost around April 26, 2009 and is most likely at the Scarface parking lot. If found please please please email me at walck.cassie@gmail.com. Thank you so much! Apr 30, 2009
Alan Searcy
Pine, Colorado
Alan Searcy   Pine, Colorado
This is hard at the bottom but eases off after 30 feet or so. Stellar jamming, my mitts were a little too big for the bottom third, so it felt desperate and insecure. Up higher (as the rain really started coming down) the tight hands opened up into a luscious, slightly moist, slutty, big hands, crack. Oct 29, 2004
As I remember it starts in fingers, it is really balancy up the start, it then goes to really good tight hands for a way (#2 friends) then it gets a little wider and gets easier. There is some cool stemming up top, not necesary but a good break. My wuss partner John, flopped all over it. This is a really good route that utterly fails to suck. Dec 20, 2001

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