Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 625 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 16, 2016
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Two meters of easy choss leads to a perfect, crisp wide hands crack in a left-facing corner. A couple of bulges make this a fun, strenuous pitch.

The anchor is three bolts, 3/8 inch if I remember correctly, and tat with two thin rap rings.

Location

About 100 meters left of Black Uhuru is a crisp left-facing corner with a continuous wide hand that goes through a couple bulges. I made a plague that reads " " 5.10+ 100 ft.

Protection

Enough #3 camalots to climb 80 feet of sustained wide hands plus a #1, #2 and #4. #4 friends are useful.

Photos

SThal
Los Alamos, NM
SThal   Los Alamos, NM
For soft 5.10 leaders like me, a good rack is C4 3s and one 2 (for the first part of the good crack). I suggest a name of "wavy suicide" because it looks like wavy gravy and slices the wrists. Best 5.10 pitch on the wall? Nov 13, 2016
slim    
I think this is probably a duplicate entry of the "Unnamed 5.10" that is just to the right. Would anybody be upset if I merged this route into that route, but kept this route's name?

Thanks. May 10, 2017
Brandon Gottung
currently Las Cruces, NM
  5.10+
Brandon Gottung   currently Las Cruces, NM
  5.10+
I don't think these are the same routes. There is a wide hand crack through changing corners just left of Lt Uhuru then further left is this route that starts with choss. May 10, 2017
slim    
cool, thanks for the feedback Brandon - much appreciated! I haven't been over there for a while and couldn't really remember. May 11, 2017
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Barely got a #4 in at the top, everything else was #3s and a #2 near the beginning. As many #3s as you feel like carrying. Took a #.75 and a #1 in the loose stuff at the very start. I've got big hands so this route was fantastic for me. Still chewed up some skin though. Nov 12, 2017
Ty Gittins
bozeman
 
Ty Gittins   bozeman
 
Placed 3 yellow and like 5 or 6 blue camalots. Awesome pitch. Felt like it would have been run out with only 2 yellow cams. This pitch is named i. The bloom guide I believe Nov 24, 2017