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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,273 total, 19/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is a great thin-hands crack in a corner with occasional rests. The roof will probably be the crux for most people. The crack starts out a tad smaller (green Camalots) and then becomes great thin-hands climbing with nice holds on the face for rests. The roof packs a bit of a punch but perfect hand jamming awaits above, taking you to the anchors. Definitely recommended.

Location

Sudden Impact is the thin-hands crack in a right-facing corner just left of Torque Wrench and Death of a Cowboy. There's a prominent roof about 2/3 of the way up the climb and some lower angle, soft rock at the bottom.

Protection

2 or 3 green Camalots, a bunch (8?) of reds and a few gold Camalots for good measure. Also, maybe one blue Camalot. I also believe that I used a smaller piece to protect the lower section although I may have backcleaned the piece to save on rope drag.

Photos

armchairalpinist
Issaquah, WA
 
armchairalpinist   Issaquah, WA
 
wow! this is long. black metolious for the win! I only had 2 but would have appreciated a few more. I brought a BD #4 camalot..it protected the short section of #4 camalot! I also brought 2 BD #3s, placed both but only needed one. Anchor is a 3/8" SMC spinner, drilled angle and a beefy ASCA bolt, all equipped with chain and rap rings! Nov 12, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11
This thing is damn near a 60m ropelength of mostly .75 - 1. Black metolius is a really good size to have, as .75s will be tippy for a while before 1s fit. I didn't have a decent hand jam on this until at least 30m up. Nice and sustained with some sneaky rests! One of the better pitches I've climbed at the creek after the initial ledge scramble. Nov 2, 2015
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
 
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
 
I used 3#0.75, ~7#1, ~5#2, #3(optional) - bd c4 sizes
After cleaning, 80m rope lowered me to a big ledge ~30ft above the base. Nov 13, 2014
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.11+
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.11+
Long, sweet route! Take 4, or so, .75 camalots, or so. There's a section of nothing but in the bottom of the main corner right after a little wide pod. Then it's 1s until all the way til after the roof (which is freakin hard!). Nov 3, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
new version of the guidebook says 180', which I think is more accurate. Wasn't much left of a 60m on the ground.

Used yellow alien/tcus (2) to protect the start, but backcleaning is a good idea for drag purposes. Nov 13, 2009
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
kind of like a thin hands mirror image of meathooks. tight hands in a corner forever with a roof near the top. this is an excellent route. May 26, 2009