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Routes in Scarface

Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Rain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,518 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brian Adzima on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Lt. Uhuru climbs the left facing corner left of Black Uhuru. Like Black Uhuru, Lt. Uhuru is mostly laybacking and jamming between good stances. The significant difference is the short corner roof at about 80 feet. If you are like me and hang out beneath the roof for a couple falls the end isn't bad, otherwise you may need some juice to get to the anchor. Note, the roof may be a little sandy, and something crumbled under my feet at one of the other stance and my belayer had to dodge.

Location

The left facing corner left of Black Uhuru.

Protection

The anchors are at a full hundred feet, and consist of tat, so it may be wise to bring some new webbing along. The corner is mostly 1.5 friends.

Photos

much fun - the lower laybacking is just as nice, and little more sustained, than Black Uhuru.

a little more gear beta for those interested - lower laybacking section takes .75 Camalots (i used four), and the crux roof sews up with #1 Friend/.5 Camalots/orange metolius (i used one of each). other than that, bring singles from yellow metolius to #2 or #3 Camalot. as a side note, the anchors are still bogus tat - probably the same stuff Brian mentions in his description. Mar 7, 2010
Jack Taylor
Issaquah, WA
 
Jack Taylor   Issaquah, WA
 
Awesome route! .5s out the little roof at the top. Rock quality is good, not crumbly! Save a hand size cam or run it out to the chains! I forget if it was bolts or angles, all seemed fine, would be rad to have some chain and rings! Nov 12, 2016
I personally would have liked at least 6 .75s Apr 27, 2017
Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Anchor was 2 drilled pins and a good bolt connected with tat. Tat could use replacement currently. Yet another great corner in the area! Apr 30, 2018

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