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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Rain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: UNK
Page Views: 12,920 total · 70/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Mar 27, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

Way down towards the right end of the Scarface wall (but not quite as far as 'Twitch') lies a sinuous left-facing corner formed by a precarious-looking pedestal with an hourglass shape at the base. It's mostly hands, in some form or other, the whole way, and not very long- maybe 70 feet. Gets great morning sun, a good warm-up.

Protection [Edit]

1 #2, 1 #2.5, several #3, 1 #3.5 friends; a couple runners to minimize drag on the waves
Joe Leonhard
Denver, CO
Joe Leonhard   Denver, CO
Fun route, just be careful of the HUGE hollow flake on your left and some loose stuff on top. Feb 14, 2006
Jason Haas
5.10-
Jason Haas  
5.10-
if you hit the massive flake to the left of the route while you are on the ground, you can make the entire wall sound like a bongo drum! Apr 23, 2006
Laurie Lambe
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Laurie Lambe   Cottonwood Heights, UT
I think this climb is harder than most people say it is. Maybe it's just my perception but... Imagine doing the roof on Incredible Hand Crack with blue Camalots ... Oct 21, 2006
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
This route is much easier if you stem to the crack out left while climbing the steep sections. Apr 13, 2007
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Excellent hands. Led it but it was hard for me through the 2nd roof. Cool climb tho. Nov 26, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10
This crack eats ropes very easily. Try to get your rope running in a straight line as much as possible. Place your cams selectively and use runners to avoid a zig-zag. Apr 30, 2009
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Definately give this a shot if (or, more appropriately, when) you go to Scarface. Great hands and a standout line for the creek. Jun 5, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
You can easily place a finger piece in the left crack above the second roof to keep the rope from pushing any pieces back in there. Nov 23, 2009
Phill T  
not quite the gimmie I was expecting on it. Both roofs were quite a grunt for me. the first one was on the thin side and the top was on the wide side. Not sure what Dr. Evil is smoking, the left finger crack is offset the wrong way to stem to. Pro, sure, maybe even a gastone, but stemming? not quite.

Also note that it IS possible (if a little sketch) to traverse from the top of Wavy Gravy to set up a line on Mantle Illness nextdoor (lots of fun!). Someone will have to follow and clean it for you, but it protects well and goes at about 9. Lots of loose stuff to kick off so make sure no one is below you. May 3, 2010
Sara Ann
Sunnyvale, CA
Sara Ann   Sunnyvale, CA
If you traverse right to Mantle Illness, it's extra sketch for your second, as s/he must downclimb onto a ledge with a pile of scree, above the pro, risking a pendulum fall... make sure whoever follows isn't too big a pansy and maybe wears a helmet. Mantle Illness is so worth it, tho. May 26, 2010
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
first, sorry for a lengthy dissertation that doesn't really relate to this route... just a quick suggestion for sara ann (and others who find themselves in this type of situation). this is a good candidate for using a lower-out method.

1) clip directly into the Gravy anchor with a sling/daisy.
2) have your partner give you a bunch of slack, like 50 feet for example.
3) tie into the '50 foot point' of the rope, using either a figure 8 on a bight with 2 lockers to your harness, or you can tie a huge doubled back figure 8, which is hard to explain but is better because it doesn't require biners.
4) make sure your partner has you on belay still, and that there isn't a huge amount of slack out.
5) untie from your END of the rope and pass it through your anchor on Gravy, tie knot in end if you want. Pass "25 feet" of it through the anchor point.
6) set yourself up as if you were going to rappel on your two little 25 foot strands.
7) unclip and start rapelling while traversing towards your belayer, who should be taking in the slack in his belay. this will basically keep you on belay on both sides, keep you from swinging, and help you get traversed to a point under your belayer.

with variations of this theme you can get yourself out of a lot of pickles. hope this helps. May 27, 2010
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Killer climb, super unique chunk of stone. Like everything here, great pro. Nowhere near as hard as IHC.... Mar 12, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
So much fun. Great jams practically throughout. The only real crux I found was the wavy roof. A must do. Oct 2, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10b
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10b
book says #1s and #2s but I placed at least 3 #3 C4s. #4 can be used also at the very top on easy slab before the anchors Apr 8, 2014
Scott E
  5.10b
Scott E  
  5.10b
This stellar route protects well with a #3 for down low, 1 or 2 #1s and 5 #2s. Another #3 could be plugged up top. The roof sections are a lot harder if you choose to stay in jams and not pull into a layback. May 1, 2017
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
5.10
Chad Elliott   Las Vegas
5.10
Great route with slightly difficult pulls over the two roofs. This spot has the best shade area too, where you can climb when it's super sunny and still seek shade when you needed it. Nov 10, 2017

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