Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,078 total · 15/month
Shared By: Danny Inman on Oct 1, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route takes the fingers-to-tight-hands splitter just left of Big Guy. Begin with some soft and sandy climbing to gain the ledge at the base of this striking crack. Work through some bomber finger locks with good feet (red aliens/0.5 camalots), a short section of .75-camalot size, followed by tight hands (very tight #1 camalots) through a curve, finish on soft rock.

Location

Thin splitter in the middle of the right-facing wall immediately left of Big Guy. Shares the same soft start as Big Guy.

Protection

Doubles though #1 camalots.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
A pretty nice climb. Occasional footholds and good stances for rest keep it from being 11+.
It is too short to be classic though, and it feels even shorter than it actually is due to all of the easy climbing at the beginning. Apr 27, 2009
Bowie Pearson
Portland, OR
Bowie Pearson   Portland, OR
Was there this last weekend - plaque definitely says Brown on Butter. I struggled with the .75 section, offset and a little tricky, but overall a great little route and easy to protect so it makes a decent "warm-up". Apr 29, 2009
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
there seems to be some sort of "retro-plaquing" movement. i have noticed quite a few plaques on routes that didn't have them before, ie coyne crack, supercrack, the 5.10 twin crack corner that is 50' left of scarface, this unnamed crack, etc. not a huge fan of it. Apr 29, 2009
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
slim some people love to see them come back !!!! if you think they are gay i think you should look at some thing like your taped hands... Jan 26, 2010
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
i don't tape, try again. Jan 27, 2010
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
i don't tape at the creek, and it has actually been a couple years since i taped at vedauwoo. don't make me throw you on lucille after a couple beers again cor. you know how whupped you felt last time...

you gotta admit, 'retro-plaquing' by non FA party is pretty lite... Feb 16, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
As DTP states this is already listed as POP Quiz and is listed in the Idian Creek guide as such as well. Feb 22, 2010
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.11-
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.11-
This route takes the fingers-to-tight-hands splitter just left of Big Guy. Begin with some soft and sandy climbing to gain the ledge at the base of this striking crack. Work through some bomber finger locks with good feet (red aliens/0.5 camalots), a short section of .75-camalot size, followed by tight hands (very tight #1 camalots) through a curve, finish on soft rock.

Doubles though #1 camalots. Feb 22, 2010
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Yeah definitely off fingers to thin hands. Bring extra 1s and .75s Oct 2, 2013
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
  5.11-
There is a loose block the size of a bread loaf sitting on a narrow ledge inside the crack right where the thin hands end. The base scene was too busy to safely clean it. Beware. Apr 8, 2018