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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jay Smith
Page Views: 14,587 total, 114/month
Shared By: Zac Robinson on Jun 21, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Gorgeous splitter offwidth. Laser cut.

Location

Far right side of the scarface wall. Between torque wrench and wavy gravy.

Protection

The crack starts up pretty high. I scramble the first 40 feet or so up a slabby handcrack (you can walk or bump a #2 or 3 camalot. just don't leave it there) up to a ledge.

From there here is my rack. In order. In Camalot.
.75 (green)
1 (red)
2 (gold)
3
3
4 (new 4)
4 (old 4)
4.5 (old size)
5 (new size)
6 (new size)

that should cover you good enough. pretty much just 2 of each size #3 and bigger and you are good. of course more cams if you might have to go for teh C1 ascent.
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11a
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11a
Definitely a decent body workout. Pretty standard technqoeu the whole way. Los angle enough to afford relatively easy movement of stacks. Apr 26, 2016
Mega-Classic, the definitive highlight of my trip. Long and much more varied than expected. Breaks down into essentially 4 sections:

-Easy scrambling up soft ledges for 15ft. You may want to belay from here if your rope is even a hair shy of 70m. There is a large, loose block just before the real climbing starts, try not to yank it down on your belayer...

-Fun chugging for 15ft up twin cracks (fingers/hands) leads to a mantle onto a large ledge. Little protection is needed and should be extended.

-A tricky rings/thin hands layback sequence for 15ft gains a good rest and the start of the upper splitter. Runner the first piece or suffer horrific rope drag. I was very happy to have an extra .75 camalot for this section.

-From here the line is obvious. 65 ft. of splitter climbing which relentlessly opens up from wide hands to stacks. Never got so wide that my hand/fist stacks got rattly, YMMV. Business is on #5 camalots. A new #6 will fit at the very end. Old #5 is ideal and protects the last 20 ft wonderfully.

my sew-it-up rack (c4s): 1x0.5, 2x0.75, 1x1.0, 2x2.0, 2x3.0, 3x4.0, 3x5.0, 1x5.0(old)/6.0(new). Tie a knot at the end of your rope! Mar 25, 2015
My 70m (a relatively-new bluewater rope) just barely got me back down to the ground, but you could make shorter/older 70m ropes work as well if you're OK with a bit of scrambling on the easy blocky stuff at the start. Nov 9, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11-
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11-
What a fun climb. First time ever for me on a route like this. I did find it very sustained and it was so nice when you can finally get a knee in but I was still able to get no hands rests most of the way by sticking my leg in waist high and caming my foot then rotating my hips to cam my leg. Stack pull up repeat.



Gotta say I felt way more worked after TRing Generator Crack in Yosemite and it is a 1/4 of the length but for the Creek I guess 11- is fair Nov 6, 2013
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Super fun! Was hard to get a 6 in, but it does protect the last 5 feet to the anchors


.75
1
2
3
3
3.5
4
4
4
5
5 Nov 4, 2013
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11-
F.A. Jay Smith. Original route went much higher than the present anchor. Story is that another party climbed the route thinking they were getting an f.a. and placed an anchor at the current location. Oct 24, 2013
jeffro popko
montrose,co
jeffro popko   montrose,co
i climbed this without long slings on my cams and placed them deep so the rope stayed out of my way even as i passed. i also didn't bring a #6 camalot and walked my final #5 all the way to the anchor no problem. it sure felt nice once i got my knee in there. Nov 14, 2012
D-Storm
  5.11-
D-Storm  
  5.11-
The anchors might be worthy of some maintenance or replacement. When I clipped them on March 29, 2012, they were spinning badly -- I could hit either bolt hanger and send it flying around like a pin-wheel. The bolts are beefy, though, and if they go as deep into the rock as I imagine, a hammer tap and some tightening might be all they need. Apr 1, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Really hard for those with smaller hands, feet and knees. It was too big to even butterfly or fist-stack up high & too big for my small knees. Apr 23, 2009
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
Definitely runner your pieces and push them back- rope runs great that way. At the creek we always talk about the size dependence of the grade but it's always hand or finger size. This one is all about your knee size! I have big knees relative to my handstacks and probably had to go 15 or more feet higher than my friends before I could slot it in. I will climb this again! Mar 23, 2009
Keegan
San Francisco, Ca
 
Keegan   San Francisco, Ca
 
I think the best way to minimize the rope fiasco would be to attach a long runner to the cam you are placing/walking. This way you can place it above your head without pulling any rope up. It would also be feasible to place gear behind you. That way you wouldn't have to worry about passing and kicking your already tipped out cam. All this is theoretical of course since I thrashed and grunted my way up it the same way everyone else probably does. Jan 19, 2009
Definitely get on it if you have the gear, cajones, and grit. What a total body workout. You may not wanna eat lunch right before going up it. Apr 2, 2008
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.11
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.11
This is one wicked-bad route. Totally Bitchin'. I don't recall ever working so hard for an onsight (or anything else for that matter). I had to stop twice near the top to try to puke, but alas, nothing came up, so i kept on truckin' in a true blue-collar style. To call this climb sustained would be an offensive understatement. It's one of those climbs where no one move is harder than 10+, but EVERY move is 10+, and the fucker is 120' long! And apparently there is more, a higher set of anchors for the intrepid and sadistic few. Well shit in a bag and punch it! Who would want to keep going? It looks broken and burly above the first anchors, but whatever gets your rocks off, right? It is a great pitch to refine OW technique on as there is pretty much only one way to climb the thing efficiently (hand fist stacks). Oh and Danny, I feel your pain with the rope, there is kind of no way to avoid it, but you can make it better by shoving your larger cams WAY back in there (almost as far as you can reach), don't worry, you will get them back. Nov 27, 2007
Danny Inman
Arvada
  5.11-
Danny Inman   Arvada
  5.11-
Wonderful route, so much easier on top rope. While leading this, placing gear and keeping the rope out of my way became a fiasco of epic proportions. Oct 1, 2007