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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,504 total, 26/month
Shared By: claytown on Nov 23, 2009 with updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Good warm-up or beginner lead. Liebacking or jamming up dihedral with lots of feet ledges on the left wall. Both crack systems that continue from the top of P1 have anchors, making this is best done as a two pitch route! The left finger splitter is harder than the left facing dihedral.

Location

Keep going left a ways past Scarface. It's the easy-looking route right of Black Uhuru 100 - 200 yards. There's a short #1s 5.11 crack to the right of this route.

Protection

Mainly #1s, a couple of .75s and a #2. Good anchors atop on a ledge with lots of loose rock. A 70m rope will get you down, not sure about a 60m?

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Pitch one is mostly .75s and 1s so it's great for folks with small hands. I have big hands so this felt quite challenging. Lots of rests keep the struggle minimal though. Nov 12, 2017
Vit
5.9
Vit  
5.9
The P2 corner now has a rap anchor. It's an enjoyable 5.9 pitch from #4 down to tips. A 70m rope will get you down, not sure about a 60. Enjoy! Oct 13, 2016
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
P1: Lots of good stances/rests keep this at 5.8
P2 is the splitter to the left of the obvious corner, not the corner itself. It's a solid pitch of baggy hands with some wideness near the top. I'd recommend bringing a #2, four #3 and a #4 for the offwidthy bit right below the anchors. Small gear (TCU) protects the bouldery start to this pitch. Sep 26, 2016
kyletan
 
kyletan  
 
The webbing that was up there had a really worn through, thin, aluminum rap ring and an older screw link on it. After removing the old webbing that was threaded directly through the hangers and placing the new screw links I placed a new SMC 32KN ring on one of the new links, and attached the older link to the other new link. This should let the rope run smoothly through when pulled after rapping.
That's a good piece of advice on the two links. Thanks Darren. Nov 17, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Two links each bolt? A single link on each bolt will kink your rope. Nov 16, 2015
kyletan
 
kyletan  
 
I found some really old-looking webbing threaded directly through the hangers at the anchors of the first pitch/belay. I cut the webbing off and replaced it with 2 3/8" screw links to rap from. I'm new to climbing at Indian Creek so if this is not in keeping with the preferred anchor care ethics, please let me know. Nov 16, 2015
jomey
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
jomey   Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
Did the 2nd pitch and had to come down for a #4 Camalot. Appreciated to protect the last wide part before the anchors. Apr 15, 2015
andrew grieder
Flagstaff
andrew grieder   Flagstaff
Sounds like the second pitch does not follow the obvious left facing varnished corner but goes left?
Here is a neat prussik technique to descend off one point and cut your risk if you can't find an anchor. Twenty years of climbing and I've never seen this but it is a great one to know. Thanks to Pete T. for telling me - although it could have been a month earlier!!!

petzl.com/files/all/en/acti… May 16, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
from the top of pitch one move left thin blue TCU Crack to some sporty moves thin hands to #3 cammlots to the top . an a two bolt anchor with hangers that read "no gud"EDIT i replaced the anchors on pitch 2 March 2014 get after it!! this is a great climb.. the pitch in the corner looks fun next time im up that way i will put in an anchor.. an have the previous posters give it a name... cheers DF May 3, 2013
andrew grieder
Flagstaff
andrew grieder   Flagstaff
I had the same experience as the previous poster. A nice second pitch but no anchor. I had no big gear so slung a chockstone (looked much better than the tat midway up the pitch), tested it many times and cleaned the pitch. The stone gave way just after I cleaned the first piece of the pitch. Landed on my feet on the P1 belay ledge with the sling floating down and 140 ft of rope out. We scratched no anchor with an up arrow at the P1 belay. Hopefully there will be no next time but, if so, I'll down aid if gear allows; a bit more work but no potentially disasterous consequences. Stay safe! Apr 29, 2013
Dan G0D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
Dan G0D5H411   Colorado Springs, CO
Recently tried to do the second pitch of this route....my partner climbed up through the nice corner, into the blocky section, and past a short offwidth/slot. He continued on for another 10 feet (for a total of around 70) and was left with a view of 30 more feet of offwidth but no visible anchors in sight. Lacking in gear and any indication that higher anchors existed, he ended down-climbing until he reached a single piece of old tat, slung around one of the blocks wedged in the corner. Although he enjoyed the climbing, he certainly would not recommend this pitch until someone places a second set of decent anchors. Nov 24, 2012
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
John Braun   Hendersonville, NC
When we visited in early November of 2011, a plaque at the base of the route said something like "bad anchor on second pitch" or "second pitch one bolt anchor." Can anybody confirm or deny this? Jan 9, 2012
Rob R.
Chicago, IL
 
Rob R.   Chicago, IL
 
Following the Bloom IC book, I headed up the second pitch expecting to find some anchors. I followed the crack in the dihedral up and onto the flake, then up a tiny bit of offwidth back into thin hands to a low-angle, lichen-covered ledge of sorts at maybe 60 feet.

No anchors.

It was late, I was short on gear, and no anchors were in sight, so I retreated. Maybe someone will fill the rest of us in on where this second pitch ends :)?

It is a really fun pitch! 2-3 BD #3s are very helpful on this second pitch. May 27, 2010
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
2nd pitch is good! with a crack switch! Mar 23, 2010
LahDaBudz
moab, ut
LahDaBudz   moab, ut
i believe there is now a 2nd pitch of.10 for about 60 feet starts as a sporty climb that can be protected with a blue tcu. it then goes thin hands to i believe a couple of #4 camalots. worth it just for the second pitch Jan 25, 2010