Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers
Page Views: 5,063 total · 35/month
Shared By: Max schon on Mar 16, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The mega classic corner looming overhead when you get to the top of the trail. Desert Shield is probably one of the best .12s in the Creek. The climbing up to the bolt is casual, and then it's on. Stemming seemed to be the key, both at the bolt and through the upper corner.

Protection

4x .5"; 6x .75"; 3x 1"; 1 each green, red, gold Camalot; couple slings and few QDs.

Photos

Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.12
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.12
Stellar route, hard to resist as it looms over the approach trail.

Here's my blow-by-blow: The lower crux (at the bolt) was hard to read, but easy once you figure it out. Butt friction was key.
Some cool, airy face climbing in the middle leads to a no hands rest while you contemplate the overhanging corner above.
The first thirty feet or so of the corner are definitely the enduro crux, as the corner pinches briefly to tips (~green aliens). Higher, footholds and pods make it pretty managable.

The rack suggested seems just right, although I didn't place the Green or Red Camalot (the Yellow Camalot is handy for the very top). For sure two ropes to get down, it's a long one.

Enjoy!

-Scott Nov 28, 2009
Drew Marshall
  5.12
Drew Marshall  
  5.12
an 80 will just get you down, if you belay on the pedestal Apr 28, 2017