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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,196 total, 22/month
Shared By: Mike Sokoloff on Mar 13, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Go right from where the approach trail hits the wall for a few hundred feet. This route is just left of the 5.13 corner called Death of a Cowboy (plaque). The letters TW are painted at the route's base. A long strenuous handcrack which takes some thought to negociate the crux which pulls past/over a huge chockstone. Don't get tunnel vision at this intimidating section. The majority of the route is great hands. Enjoy it!

Protection

As many hand sized pieces as you can borrow. The bottom thin-hands flack takes #2 Friends well. Bring 4 or 5 #2 Friends. Bring a couple smaller pieces but nothing micro. A #4 Friend will also be helpful. Bring slings and draws to reduce rope drag.

Photos

nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
This is an amazing route Apr 24, 2017
Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Be careful placing gear at the top of the chockstone. There are multiple .75 camalots tucked deep inside the crack because followers fall below them. If you feel like protecting yourself there, which you probably will because it's the crux, just be sure to clean it when you're standing on top of the chockstone.

That being said, this route is incredible and a must-do for any creek lover. Nov 21, 2016
Michael Ybarra
on the road
 
Michael Ybarra   on the road
 
A fun route that throws a lot at you. About 150 feet. Bring two ropes to get off. Apr 29, 2012
d-know
electric lady land
  5.11
d-know   electric lady land
  5.11
this is my favorite route on the cliff.
Jan 26, 2006