Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 268 total · 11/month
Shared By: Nate Sydnor on Feb 4, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Shylock! It sounds like the name of some medieval creature to me, but apparently the modern use of the word refers to someone with the qualities of a loan shark. It comes from Shakespeare's play, "The Merchant of Venice." It's Saxon root evidently means "white haired," and I think I may have sprouted one or two after leading this thing.

The climbing starts off with a few pods and tight tips, eventually becoming impossible. The plaque says .12+, and it felt damn hard to me. I would love to hear from the FAist, or anyone who has Houdini-ed this thing. The gear protecting the crux is the smallest possible, and the moves are very perplexing. After the crux there is a substantial but easy runout amongst some choss to the anchor. I replaced the ancient draws with two of my own. Good luck!

Location

To the right of The Sicilian and left of Not That Funny

Protection

A couple of fingers pieces, with several options of tips down to the tiniest c3. A single set of .5 - 1 BD cams is also helpful.

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