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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,560 total, 45/month
Shared By: Bryan K. on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Begin by laybacking and jamming up the small left facing corner, stemming for rests when possible. Make a corner switch and climb through a short awkward section and position yourself below the widening splitter above. Now climb a offset thin hands splitter (crux) to the anchor.

Location

A short walk right of Scar Face, starts on a long shelf above trail.

Protection

Friends- (2).75, (3)1.0, (6)1.5, (6)2.0, (1)2.5
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  5.11d
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  5.11d
NESTING WARNING: As of 4/24/16 there is a nest with 5 eggs (green with browm speckles) at the first wide pod about 4 meters off the ground. Please do not climb the route. Apr 26, 2016
ben jammin
Moab, UT
  5.11+
ben jammin   Moab, UT
  5.11+
Great route. One 70m gets you down. Mar 11, 2014
GabeO
New Haven, CT
 
GabeO   New Haven, CT
 
I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier. Oct 30, 2012
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
My experience of the upper crux (gear wise) was more in line with slim. 0.75 was the size I wish I'd had more of and I don't really remember wishing for a #2 camalot at all up high. As for movement beta, I'd say lots of good rests to use. (total no hands-pre crux among others) Jan 2, 2011
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
My guidebooks says you'll look pretty cool if you flash this. I onsighted it and all I got was one hell of a left arm pump!! Hang out at the rests along time, and it makes it easy Nov 23, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
LOVED this route!! Pretty sure the FA was Steve Hong and Bob Rotert well before I started climbing... maybe mid-80s.

11+ or 12- probably dependent on hand size, like many creek routes. Definitley has stems and rest steps. Killer climbing the whole way. After the initial dihedral you get some bouldery moves to the next crack which, if I remember was splitter #1 camalot. Excellent, long pitch. Nov 8, 2010
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
it seems i remember the lower layback section to be a mix of purple and green, and then the top offset splitter to be a couple green and then some #2 friend and maybe getting into a red camalot. hopefully if i am off track somebody can set me straight. the crack switch wasn't really a piece of cake either, kind of awkward. Oct 13, 2010
Silvia  
is the section with the 6 1.5 friends more like the purple camelots or green camelots size? Oct 13, 2010
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
probably because beagle is tough, and i'm knot. there are a couple rests, but it felt like a pretty intense route to me, particularly at this slightly rightward traverse that is kind of spooky for some reason. good route, if you haven't done it yet you should!

(the description above says the crux is just before the anchor, but i thought the laybacking closer to the bottom was the hardest part). Oct 13, 2010
Wally
Denver
Wally   Denver
Beagle says this: Lots of rests.

Slim says this: heavy on the throttle the whole way.

Beta seems to conflict. Thoughts?

Wally Oct 13, 2010
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
awesome route for sure. heavy on the throttle the whole way. May 26, 2009
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
One of the best 5.11's in the creek. Lots of rests. Nov 24, 2008