Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,031 total · 43/month
Shared By: Bryan K. on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Begin by laybacking and jamming up the small left facing corner, stemming for rests when possible. Make a corner switch and climb through a short awkward section and position yourself below the widening splitter above. Now climb a offset thin hands splitter (crux) to the anchor.


A short walk right of Scar Face, starts on a long shelf above trail.


Friends- (2).75, (3)1.0, (6)1.5, (6)2.0, (1)2.5


Bryan Gilmore
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
One of the best 5.11's in the creek. Lots of rests. Nov 24, 2008

awesome route for sure. heavy on the throttle the whole way. May 26, 2009
Wally   Denver
Beagle says this: Lots of rests.

Slim says this: heavy on the throttle the whole way.

Beta seems to conflict. Thoughts?

Wally Oct 13, 2010

probably because beagle is tough, and i'm knot. there are a couple rests, but it felt like a pretty intense route to me, particularly at this slightly rightward traverse that is kind of spooky for some reason. good route, if you haven't done it yet you should!

(the description above says the crux is just before the anchor, but i thought the laybacking closer to the bottom was the hardest part). Oct 13, 2010
is the section with the 6 1.5 friends more like the purple camelots or green camelots size? Oct 13, 2010

it seems i remember the lower layback section to be a mix of purple and green, and then the top offset splitter to be a couple green and then some #2 friend and maybe getting into a red camalot. hopefully if i am off track somebody can set me straight. the crack switch wasn't really a piece of cake either, kind of awkward. Oct 13, 2010
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
LOVED this route!! Pretty sure the FA was Steve Hong and Bob Rotert well before I started climbing... maybe mid-80s.

11+ or 12- probably dependent on hand size, like many creek routes. Definitley has stems and rest steps. Killer climbing the whole way. After the initial dihedral you get some bouldery moves to the next crack which, if I remember was splitter #1 camalot. Excellent, long pitch. Nov 8, 2010
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
My guidebooks says you'll look pretty cool if you flash this. I onsighted it and all I got was one hell of a left arm pump!! Hang out at the rests along time, and it makes it easy Nov 23, 2010
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
My experience of the upper crux (gear wise) was more in line with slim. 0.75 was the size I wish I'd had more of and I don't really remember wishing for a #2 camalot at all up high. As for movement beta, I'd say lots of good rests to use. (total no hands-pre crux among others) Jan 2, 2011
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
I thought this was very similar to Quarter of a Man. But this felt at least a half letter grade easier. Oct 30, 2012
ben jammin
Moab, UT
ben jammin   Moab, UT
Great route. One 70m gets you down. Mar 11, 2014
Where's Walden
Where's Walden  
NESTING WARNING: As of 4/24/16 there is a nest with 5 eggs (green with browm speckles) at the first wide pod about 4 meters off the ground. Please do not climb the route. Apr 26, 2016
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
No nests on the route. The climbing is incredible. Crux is 0.75 to #2 friends to tight #1s offset splitter. It pinches a bit at the lip, climbing slightly tighter than the gear that goes in. Oct 16, 2018