Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,793 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 24, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a good left-facing corner system on the left side of Scarface wall. Find the Classic Scarface and head left to a dark and shaded area of the wall on the left side. On the left is the right-facing Black Uhurhu and on the right is this left-facing Corner

It ascends the obvious crack through dark solid rock to fixed anchors. The crux for me was a bunlging between-hands-and-fists section, probably 2/3 up the route. I have small hands, so your individual experiance may be different.

This is a nice climb, overall. A basic Indian Creek dihedral, and a nice break from the typical thin corner.

Protection

2" to 3.5" heavy on the 3"

Photos

Where's Carruthers is actually the next route immediately left of Scarface. It ascends a straight-in crack in a corner that moves from tight hands to very wide hands near the top. Oct 25, 2004
Rob T  
Agreed w/ the above. you can also see "WC" spray painted at the base. Nov 3, 2006
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Can someone tell me what routes I jsut described above then, the left and right sides of an opposing inset? I'd love to correct this posting and as such, move it off so someone can pos tthe correct route here...
If nobody can tell me what route this is, then please delete the comments so I can delete the route entry I made. I can't delete the route entry with comments attached. Nov 3, 2006
Braxtron
...
5.10
Braxtron   ...
5.10
I think this climb is actually Black Uhuru. Feb 4, 2007
slim    
hey tony,

was it a changing corner that starts left facing and then switches to right facing (change occurs right during a bulging section)? was it almost jet black rock? if so it is probably unnamed #2 in the bloom book. Feb 5, 2007
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.10+
Yep, Where's Carruther's is thin hands in a tight flare to a small ledge 30' up, then wide hands for another 30-40 feet. First climb left of Scarface. Dec 1, 2007
Ryan Fischer
Littleton
 
Ryan Fischer   Littleton
 
If the climb in question is in fact Unnamed 5.10 #2 in the Bloom guide. Here are a couple pics of it. Tight hands down low, then hands #2s, and a couple 3's after the corner change up top. Apr 10, 2009
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
this climb is called trading places..... was put up by a strong man! Jan 26, 2010
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
this is left of black and lt. uhuru by about 150ft Sep 14, 2012
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
#1s, #2s and #3s are all this climb needs. Might be able to place a #4 in the pod towards the top but easily protects with #3s above and below. For those with big hands the crux is the first ten feet then the hands get wider and comfier. Dec 3, 2017