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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,635 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 24, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a good left-facing corner system on the left side of Scarface wall. Find the Classic Scarface and head left to a dark and shaded area of the wall on the left side. On the left is the right-facing Black Uhurhu and on the right is this left-facing Corner

It ascends the obvious crack through dark solid rock to fixed anchors. The crux for me was a bunlging between-hands-and-fists section, probably 2/3 up the route. I have small hands, so your individual experiance may be different.

This is a nice climb, overall. A basic Indian Creek dihedral, and a nice break from the typical thin corner.

Protection

2" to 3.5" heavy on the 3"

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
 
#1s, #2s and #3s are all this climb needs. Might be able to place a #4 in the pod towards the top but easily protects with #3s above and below. For those with big hands the crux is the first ten feet then the hands get wider and comfier. Dec 3, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
this is left of black and lt. uhuru by about 150ft Sep 14, 2012
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
this climb is called trading places..... was put up by a strong man! Jan 26, 2010
Ryan Fischer
Littleton
 
Ryan Fischer   Littleton
 
If the climb in question is in fact Unnamed 5.10 #2 in the Bloom guide. Here are a couple pics of it. Tight hands down low, then hands #2s, and a couple 3's after the corner change up top. Apr 10, 2009
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.10+
Yep, Where's Carruther's is thin hands in a tight flare to a small ledge 30' up, then wide hands for another 30-40 feet. First climb left of Scarface. Dec 1, 2007
slim    
hey tony,

was it a changing corner that starts left facing and then switches to right facing (change occurs right during a bulging section)? was it almost jet black rock? if so it is probably unnamed #2 in the bloom book. Feb 5, 2007
Braxtron
...
5.10
Braxtron   ...
5.10
I think this climb is actually Black Uhuru. Feb 4, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Can someone tell me what routes I jsut described above then, the left and right sides of an opposing inset? I'd love to correct this posting and as such, move it off so someone can pos tthe correct route here...
If nobody can tell me what route this is, then please delete the comments so I can delete the route entry I made. I can't delete the route entry with comments attached. Nov 3, 2006
Rob T  
Agreed w/ the above. you can also see "WC" spray painted at the base. Nov 3, 2006
Where's Carruthers is actually the next route immediately left of Scarface. It ascends a straight-in crack in a corner that moves from tight hands to very wide hands near the top. Oct 25, 2004