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Routes in Scarface

Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Rain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,926 total · 31/month
Shared By: claytown on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


219 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

R-facing corner goes hands to wide hands. Bouldery start to gain face feet. opens up to #3 camalot or 3.5 friend for the rest of the route. Good stemming and crack feet though. Really good route!

Location

just left of scarface in r-facing dihedral with bouldery start to a ledge.

Protection

book says 2x2, 2x2.5, 2x3, 3x3.5 (friends). Agree it's mainly #3 camalots up higher to the anchor. I took a 4 and never placed it. 3.5 camalot barely fit.

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
Good route but by no means does it deserve 4-stars. Surrounded by routes like Scarface, Black Uhruhu, Desert Vuarnet, Desert Shield, etc. 2.5 stars maximum. Apr 4, 2008
Matt Lisenby
  5.10b/c
Matt Lisenby  
  5.10b/c
Check out the extended version of WC. Continue past the anchors into a chimney capped by a bombay 7 incher, then to more straightforward OW and finally to overhanging fists. It probably checks in around 11+. You can see the bombay in the picture. . . Sep 12, 2008
The start is a bit awkward and hard but just comit to the thin hands for a move or two hit the jug and it's over. I did get a 4 in about 8-10 feet below the anchor Apr 21, 2012
Likeasummerthursday
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.10
3.5 was great as the last two pieces. Mar 1, 2015
Mark van Eijk
  5.10+
Mark van Eijk  
  5.10+
Didn't love it. Started on ringlocks in an awkward flare and ended with rattly cups in an awkward flare. The acute angle of the sides channeled the rope straight into the crack, requiring constant management. All these things can be overcome, but didn't make for very enjoyable climbing. Mar 23, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10+
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10+
I really liked this route. I think I placed a .75 and two #1 c4 at bottom, maybe a #2 also? Rest of he route takes #3s and also placed an older 3.5 c4 and also a #4 up top before the anchors Mar 29, 2016
ONE BOLT AT THE TOP! When I was there in January one of the bolts was loose and protruding from the wall. I removed the hanger and chain and left it at the bottom to discourage people from climbing it until the bolt is replaced. Jan 26, 2018
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10+
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.10+
I fixed the anchor on this today (2/4/18). It's now two nice glue-ins with chain. Feb 4, 2018

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