Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,747 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Sep 30, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Great route. This route is many hundred yards right of scarface and about 200 feet right of Wavy Gravy. Starts with a perfect hands roof crack which widens just above the lip to wide hands. Pulling the lip is the crux. After that its a 5.10 thin hands corner to the top.

[The roof is about twenty feet long and 4 feet deep. You can't miss the fist sized crack that is the start of Twitch.]

Protection

3-4 sets of camalots from finger size to #3

Photos

This is one of my favorite routes at indian creek. Unlike a lot of the other roof routes at the creek, the roof comes right at the beginning and it is perfect hands. After the roof comes a great(fun not huge) dihedral to the anchors. Definately get on this climb if you get the chance. However, you must walk pretty damn far to get to it so be prepared and keep walking, you'll know it when you see it. Feb 10, 2003
Lon Black  
 
I agree Andy. What a line. I have never even checked it out as I walked by to go to routes farther right like Big Guy or Wavy Gravy. Friggin awesome line. Apr 2, 2008
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.11
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.11
Fantastic route well worth the walk down the right side of the crag. In a place with lots and lots of corners, this one stands out. Great roof pull. Nov 6, 2008
slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
a pretty good tug to get over the roof and get stood up. climbs more like a granite crack. Nov 28, 2011
Courtney Pace   Sandy
Very stout roof. Easy to get into the thick of it but hard to get your feet up as the jams start to flare. The plaque said 11++ and I would agree. Mar 16, 2012
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11c
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11c
Great pitch! Getting over the roof is a puzzle, once you figure it out it's not so bad but still stouter than many pitches of the same grade. Having a #3 ready to go at the lip was nice for my head. Also why not double up on the pro under the roof(play to win)?

Hard to believe some folks only give this 2 stars, one of the better pitches at the Creek. Nov 6, 2013