Type: Trad, 40 ft, 2 pitches
FA: S Quinlan, D Anderson, 1992
Page Views: 2,913 total · 22/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Nov 8, 2007 with updates from Tony B
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


137 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Crack in corner starts as hands and quickly turns into big hands. Somewhat difficult moves where the corner opens up and you have to climb over a large wedged boulder in the crack. Felt hard for 5.9, but it's only 40 feet so....

Location

First climb left of Wavy Gravy. Corner that opens at the top with a boulder wedged in the crack.

Protection

Probably 2 each of gold and blue Camalots and maybe a smaller piece or two for the top.

Photos

canyonclimber
Casper WY
canyonclimber   Casper WY
Good two bolt anchor at the top. Also you can continue over to the anchor of the OW corner for a TR. Feb 7, 2009
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Felt very hard for a 5.9. Think more 5.10...short but it has some thin hands followed by wide hands. Not THAT much easier than wavy gravy for me. Apr 30, 2009
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Agree about feeling harder than a 5.9 Feb 16, 2010
Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
As of 5/10 there is a name plaque at the base of this climb that says "Dr. Awkward, 5.9". Seems about right. May 26, 2010
snicho
Boulder, CO
snicho   Boulder, CO
The gear includes a couple of #1 cams and a #2. #3 optional. Great lead if you have small hands! Oct 31, 2012
David Dennis
High Sierra
  5.9
David Dennis   High Sierra
  5.9
As of 10/30/14, the left bolt on this climb's anchor was slightly loose and able to be moved up/down and side-to-side. It was tight enough to not pull out when I yanked on it, but there was more movement than you'd like. The right bolt is bomber with decent webbing on it. You can scramble up to the anchors on top of Fat Farm and rap off those if you don't like what you see. FYI! Oct 31, 2014
Anus Herder
Colona, CO
  5.10-
Anus Herder   Colona, CO
  5.10-
If you look up at the anchor there is another anchor 40' up there.. looks harder but could be a rad P2? Anyone know what this is? Nov 23, 2015
Scott .
  5.9
Scott .  
  5.9
Tight hands to good hands to a fun bouldery moves to get out of the pod at the top. Protects very well with 2 #1, 2 #2, and 2 #3. May 1, 2017
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
The crux protects nicely with a #3 as you make the final move up and out of the chockstone pod. Short, but fun route that makes you think at the end. Dec 3, 2017