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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bob Rotert
Page Views: 9,998 total, 55/month
Shared By: Joe Gartner on Nov 22, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Black Uhuru has got to be one of the best 5.10s anywhere. Begin on the far left side of the wall, well past scarface, sicilian, etc., underneath a huge varnished right facing corner. The climb begins up some easy ledges to the splitter corner. Climb this with jams and laybacks. The climb has several difficult sections with good rests/hand jams and takes all sizes of gear. This is a long pitch and needs two ropes to get off safely (maybe 1 rope reaches the top of the ledges but it has been a while and I don't trust my memory)

Protection

Friends to 3". Heavy on the .5" - 2.0" range.
Moritz B.
  5.10+
Moritz B.  
  5.10+
This is like a shorter version of "End of the line" with better rests on it. Dec 1, 2014
Brian Alexander
  5.10+
Brian Alexander  
  5.10+
A single 60m easily reaches the huge ledge right off the ground, but remember to put a knot in the end. I was happy to have one #3 Camalot at the top before the mantle. Apr 21, 2012
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.10+
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.10+
Ya Slim I've got fat fingers so 0.5 camalots feel pretty secure for the layback, but 0.4 I've gotta mash my digits in there to get a good fit. This thing climbs really well though with stances visible from a few feet away so I felt like I could gun it, and feel good about a little runout here and there. Nov 18, 2011
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
damn, only 2 .5's. i used a pile of them, but the crack varies a bit so you can probably get a lot of other stuff. Sep 7, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.10+
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
  5.10+
my 70m put me down to the dirt on rappel. I believe I used 3-4 0.4, 2 0.5, 3 #1, 1 #2, and 1 #3 camalot sizes. Sep 6, 2011
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.10+
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.10+
So fun.... I would say at least 1 ton.

I placed (1) #.4, (4) #.5, (1) #1, (2) #2 May 23, 2011
David Crockett
Chattanooga, TN
 
David Crockett   Chattanooga, TN
 
Guidebook says the anchors are at 100 feet. We did this with a 60 meter rope and belayed / lowered below the ledge.

Was not a soft 5.10.

Bring lots of #0.5 camalots. May 9, 2011
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Great route. 70m works from the top of the ledges. Plentiful rests keep the climbing more moderate than it appears. Lots of #.5 BD Nov 19, 2009
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10d
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10d
This is a beautiful varnished corner that looks harder than it really is. There are a number of no hands rests between the hard lieback sections.

Here is a rack recommendation:

1 #0.3/0.4, 5-7 #0.5, 3-4 #0.75, and 2 #1,2 camalots... Oct 26, 2009
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Joe Gartner's route description is accurate for Black Uhuru. We did this with a 70 m rope belaying from the ledge, and didn't have any problems lowering. I don't recall how much rope we had remaining, so I'm not sure if 60 m is sufficient. Even for small hands, I had to layback parts of it but there are facial features allowing for decent rests. This is a great climb. Oct 28, 2008
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
'where's carruthers' is only about 5 feet left of scarface. starts in a hanging flare of sorts (off fingers to tight hands) and then goes to a straight in right facing dihedral with hands to fists.
the route listed on this page definitely isn't WC. it looks like black uhuru. Feb 5, 2007
Braxtron
...
Braxtron   ...
I'm pretty sure this route is Where's Carruthers. Feb 4, 2007
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
 
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
 
This is an awesome 5.10 pitch, classic for sure. Cool finish crawling into the pod at the top! Apr 29, 2006
Max Schon
  5.10d
Max Schon  
  5.10d
The hands corner just to the left of Where's Carruthers is not BU. The above description is accurate in terms of the climbs location. The climb has a plaque below it. BU has a lot of fingers as well, with a short finger crux near the top. Oct 12, 2004
This description doesn't fit the route I've always been told is Black Uhuru. Unless I'm mistaken Black Uhuru is near Scarface, and is the next dihedral to the left of the hand-to-wide hand crack Where's Carruthers. It is a left facing dihedral which is climbed via twin cracks (one is thin hands in the dihedral, the other is wide hands on the face) into a chimney. The chimney is exited via cruxy liebacks to another lieback section before the anchors. If I remember correctly, the crux is actually best protected by stoppers and is a rare Indian Creek 5.10 that felt for-real for the grade. Aug 11, 2003