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Routes in Scarface

Banditos ! T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anal Leakage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Guy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Jon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Uhuru T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carlito's Way T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cement Shoes T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Cleaner, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cocaine Blues T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Columbian Hit Man T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Comic Relief T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Death of a Cowboy T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Desert Shield T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Desert Sunset T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desert Vuarnet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirt Cheap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fat Farm, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fertile Crescent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
He's up Here T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Internal Scar T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lt. Uhuru T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mantel Illness T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Montana Gangster T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
My Little Friend T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Not That Funny T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Slave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Powder Your Nose T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Rain T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 666 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route of All Evil T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Scard Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Scarface T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Shylock, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sicilian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Spam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steel Pulse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sudden Impact T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Torque Wrench T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trading Places T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twitch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown 5.9 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Bandito Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wavy Gravy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Of The Gun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Where's Carruthers? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Your Mama T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 37,523 total · 177/month
Shared By: Ben F on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

To find this climb, head left when you reach the base of the wall from the approach trail. Look for the perfect finger and thin hands crack.

Protection [Edit]

Gear for me was as follows: a 1 friend, a purple camalot jr (though a 1.5 friend would have been better), 1 green camalot jr, a 2 friend, 2 red camalots, 2 2.5 friends and 2 gold camalots. If you want to sew it a bit more, bring another 2.5 friend or red camalot and/or a 1 friend. Towards the top, if you're out of hand sized, you can reach to the crack to the right and plug a 1 friend.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
Cams 1.5"-2.5", until it gets wider at the top (take a few 3"). It is mostly 2" once you get off of the ground. THis is green camalot or purple HB (black metolius?) This climb is relentless, but is easier for people with small hands. GO FOR IT. Dec 20, 2001
I haven't done many routes at IC, or many cracks at all for that matter, but this was a really cool route. The bottom of the route has three or so pods in the crack, and going from the first to the second is much harder is you're short. The hardest part for me was fighting the pump on the thin hands crack after the last pod to a block wedged into the crack. The only downfall is it seems to be the only really good route in the area. Feb 19, 2002
Ooo Jared, don't know if I'd agree with you there. There's quite a few really high-quality climbs right around Scarface (Black Uhuru, Where's Carruthers, Wavy Gravy, etc.). I'd submit them, but I'm too much of a wuss to lead them and I won't submit routes I haven't led. Feb 27, 2002
This is the most enjoyable single pitch of crack climbing I've ever experienced. Simply a fantastic route. May 13, 2003
Obviously Jared hasn't been to the Scarface wall very often. Other than the good routes mentioned by the other person, here are just a few more: Sicilian, Columbian Hitman, Not That Funny, Desert Vaurnet (probably one of the best routes at the Creek)...shall I go on? May 16, 2003
One of the three bolts at the anchor wiggles around in your hands. This is the center bolt with a large, rounded edge hangar. The other two bolts seem fine and are adequate for an anchor and getting off (have chains between these two).

Super route and still pumpy with a no-gear to clean top rope. Apr 3, 2006
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
if you have smaller hands, this climb is more of a 5.10. the crux begining is short, and the rest of the crack is stellar hands. Oct 30, 2006
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11b
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
  5.11b
The view form here is just awesome! Oct 15, 2007
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Agreed with m-earles comments. Its thin hands most of the way then widens some higher up. First 15 ft is slightly overhanging but its hard to tell from photos. It took some cool photos from the top. Will post them later. Nov 26, 2007
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
 
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
 
was easier for me NOT to tape up on this one, (I have small hands) the inside is quite worn, so your hands won/t actually get too torn up, enjoy. Apr 8, 2008
Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
  5.11-
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
  5.11-
This is a four star route because it is such a striking line at the Scarface Wall. I enjoy this route, but I like the "sicilian" much more. Scarface is another Creek route the grade is depending if you have bigger or smaller hands. The beginning is thin, so big handed people are going to have a harder time. How did this thing get downgraded from 11c to 11-? Aug 9, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Beautiful line with a fun cruxy start and bomber hands the rest of the way. Once you get past the first 6 meters it's pretty much in the bag and fun as hell. May 3, 2013

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