Tony B Around Boulder, CO   5.11

[Hide Comment] Cams 1.5"-2.5", until it gets wider at the top (take a few 3"). It is mostly 2" once you get off of the ground. THis is green camalot or purple HB (black metolius?) This climb is relentless, but is easier for people with small hands. GO FOR IT. Dec 20, 2001

Jared Brin Crested Butte, CO

[Hide Comment] I haven't done many routes at IC, or many cracks at all for that matter, but this was a really cool route. The bottom of the route has three or so pods in the crack, and going from the first to the second is much harder is you're short. The hardest part for me was fighting the pump on the thin hands crack after the last pod to a block wedged into the crack. The only downfall is it seems to be the only really good route in the area. Feb 19, 2002

Jason Wells

[Hide Comment] Ooo Jared, don't know if I'd agree with you there. There's quite a few really high-quality climbs right around Scarface (Black Uhuru, Where's Carruthers, Wavy Gravy, etc.). I'd submit them, but I'm too much of a wuss to lead them and I won't submit routes I haven't led. Feb 27, 2002

Josh Beck

[Hide Comment] This is the most enjoyable single pitch of crack climbing I've ever experienced. Simply a fantastic route. May 13, 2003

Max Schon

[Hide Comment] Obviously Jared hasn't been to the Scarface wall very often. Other than the good routes mentioned by the other person, here are just a few more: Sicilian, Columbian Hitman, Not That Funny, Desert Vaurnet (probably one of the best routes at the Creek)...shall I go on? May 16, 2003

Dan Mottinger

[Hide Comment] One of the three bolts at the anchor wiggles around in your hands. This is the center bolt with a large, rounded edge hangar. The other two bolts seem fine and are adequate for an anchor and getting off (have chains between these two). Super route and still pumpy with a no-gear to clean top rope. Apr 3, 2006

Mason Earle USA

[Hide Comment] if you have smaller hands, this climb is more of a 5.10. the crux begining is short, and the rest of the crack is stellar hands. Oct 30, 2006

Chris O'Connor boulder, co   5.11b

[Hide Comment] The view form here is just awesome! Oct 15, 2007

Joshua Tree Runner Rancho Cucamonga, CA   5.11a/b

[Hide Comment] Agreed with m-earles comments. Its thin hands most of the way then widens some higher up. First 15 ft is slightly overhanging but its hard to tell from photos. It took some cool photos from the top. Will post them later. Nov 26, 2007

Armin hammer Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] was easier for me NOT to tape up on this one, (I have small hands) the inside is quite worn, so your hands won/t actually get too torn up, enjoy. Apr 8, 2008

Ben Griffin Chattanooga, TN   5.11-

[Hide Comment] This is a four star route because it is such a striking line at the Scarface Wall. I enjoy this route, but I like the "sicilian" much more. Scarface is another Creek route the grade is depending if you have bigger or smaller hands. The beginning is thin, so big handed people are going to have a harder time. How did this thing get downgraded from 11c to 11-? Aug 9, 2011

Matt Hoffmann Squamish

[Hide Comment] Beautiful line with a fun cruxy start and bomber hands the rest of the way. Once you get past the first 6 meters it's pretty much in the bag and fun as hell. May 3, 2013

Paul Delaney

[Hide Comment] Tony B is correct. Oct 11, 2019

Joshua Tree Runner Rancho Cucamonga, CA   5.11a/b

[Hide Comment] Climbed again yesterday on TR. the start is protectable, sustained, and overhanging with poor feet. Be ready. Our team pre-clipped the start to avoid grounding. The can be done by standing on the boulder at the base of the climb. Nov 7, 2020

Mitchell McAuslan Spokane, WA   5.11-

[Hide Comment] I used BD Camalots #0.4 or #0.5 at bottom, #0.75x(2-3), #1x(2-3), #2x(3-4), #3x(1-2) for top. All depends on how much you want to place. Nov 25, 2023

Erik N

[Hide Comment] I climbed to the chockstone with: BD #0.4, #0.5, 2x #0.75, 3x #1, and 3x #2. This felt amply protected to me. From the chockstone to the anchors I used two BD #3s, but they got in the way of my climbing and weren’t the most inspiring placements. I would have preferred more #2s OR some nuts and small cams. There are plenty of nut/small cam placements behind chockstones or in the neighboring thin crack. Oct 1, 2024

Janus Peterson

[Hide Comment] Took a lap on this one last weekend — starts out with solid hand jams for about 15-20 feet before it starts to taper down into tight hands/thin hands. If you’ve got smaller hands, you’ll love that upper section, but I definitely had to fight the pump. Protection is straightforward: a few #2s low, then mostly #1s with a #0.75 up high. Rock is clean, no awkward moves, and the view from the anchors is worth it alone. Aug 14, 2025