Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,850 total · 37/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Feb 29, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


I don't know how many times I've been to the Scarface Wall and not gone to the right side. Mantel Illness is a ways down on the right side (couple hundred yards). There is a very short crack to the left of Mantel Illness.

This is a fun climb, with a crux unlike most in the Creek. It's easy 5.10- climbing up to the crux. The crux is a great bouldery mantel/highstep move. It's well protected by a green alien or, if you're scared, a #0 TCU less then a foot higher. After the mantel, the climb is pretty much over. Easily done with a 60 meter rope.


A few hand pieces for the start, and then a smattering of gear down to a green alien.
Grant Bryans
buena vista colorado
  5.11- PG13
Grant Bryans   buena vista colorado
  5.11- PG13
I think Bloom calls this climb an 11-, the high step crux is tricky, at least for me, but this is a gem, haven't led it just TR but soon..... Apr 21, 2006
Seems like the crux mantle was more than 10+
blue TCU is below your feet, move's balancey, Sinestra-esque
and the piece you get before the chains is in friable rock.
All this keeps the brain busy on lead.
BTW, if ya got bigger hands, the hand crack is no giveaway, with
a couple bodylengths of splitter offset green camalots.
super fun route Mar 2, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
This route is atypical indian creek route, but one of my fav-o-rites! Dec 26, 2009
Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
i found the face climbing crux to be relatively positive...you are not forced to mantle if you hit the crimps right. getting to the first jug was harder for me. Mar 31, 2011
San Francisco
Mareko   San Francisco
Climbed this last week. Amazing, has a bit of everything, from crimps to great hand jams. A must do when your at the creek. Its to the right of Wavy Gravy May 24, 2011
Rosco Ross
Albuquerque, NM
Rosco Ross   Albuquerque, NM
I have to agree that this is a gem. Well worth doing if you are over this far on Scarface. I was able to get a solid 0.3Camalot just below the mantel, which made me feel better for the crimps up above. Jun 1, 2011

i thought the off fingers splitter beneath the mantel section was the crux. pretty balancy/ barn door sort of thing. the face climbing goes pretty well if you hit the holds right. Nov 28, 2011
This thing kicked my butt. In the process of that happening, I tried cheating over to the left crack, but it is a big off width. Has anyone ever done that route? It doesn't appear on mountainproject yet. Dec 15, 2015