Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,537 total · 25/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Apr 16, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Head up easy hands in a corner to a roof (stem). Best to backclean or run out the hands stretch to avoid rope drag. Pull around the corner into fingers leading to a strenuous stance beneath the 2nd roof. Pull this roof to another strenuous stance beneath the 3rd roof. Above this roof sequential jamming leads to the chains but there are no stances so you'll either need burl to place gear or balls to punch it for a short ways.

Protection

A couple of 2-3" pieces, many fingers sized pieces.

Photos

It's to the right of Scarface, about a hundred yards. There are two roof cracks, one Comic Relief, the other Not That Funny. Both are to the left of the mega-classic Desert Vaurnet. May 7, 2004
Dominik Franz
  5.12-
Dominik Franz  
  5.12-
one of scarface' finest routes! goes from hands directly to fingers and pulls 3 little roofs. crux is actually after it gets vertical again towards the top since your feet are quite slippery and insecure. "just lay back, dude" Nov 20, 2006
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
Pretty easy to get your rope stuck in the crack on this one. The rope pushes the cams far into the crack, so heinous! Dec 1, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
I can't recommend running it out past the lip. I did this and swung into the lip of the roof. Now I have a bump on my shin and coreshot my rope at the knot. Oct 16, 2018