Type: Trad
FA: Scott Carson
Page Views: 5,315 total · 24/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 11, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is located on the left aspect of the Scarface wall about 50 feet to the right of the splitter Scarface. It is recognized as a chalked up series of changing corners with a #0.5 Camalot crack inside. It is a relatively short climb with anchors about 50 to 60 feet high. As is the case with many Indian Creek corners, Sicilian may be jammed or laybacked. I used a combination of these 2 techniques. The crux comes at mid-height where one must negotiate an obvious change in the corner's direction using difficult finger-stacking jams. Once through this section, "cruise" to the finish on thin hands jams. An exciting an strenuous route! It's 2-star rating is only due to the length. The book rated it 5.11, but I feel that 5.11+ is more appropriate. Have fun!

Protection

This route takes #0.5 Camalots very well. Bring 5 pieces in that size range. A couple #0.75 Camalots may also go in. TCUs are helpful for the start and a #1 Camalot or 2.5 Friend will protect the finishing thin-hands crack. There is a good double-bolt anchor at the finish.

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