Type: Trad
FA: Scott Carson
Page Views: 4,612 total · 23/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 11, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route is located on the left aspect of the Scarface wall about 50 feet to the right of the splitter Scarface. It is recognized as a chalked up series of changing corners with a #0.5 Camalot crack inside. It is a relatively short climb with anchors about 50 to 60 feet high. As is the case with many Indian Creek corners, Sicilian may be jammed or laybacked. I used a combination of these 2 techniques. The crux comes at mid-height where one must negotiate an obvious change in the corner's direction using difficult finger-stacking jams. Once through this section, "cruise" to the finish on thin hands jams. An exciting an strenuous route! It's 2-star rating is only due to the length. The book rated it 5.11, but I feel that 5.11+ is more appropriate. Have fun!

Protection

This route takes #0.5 Camalots very well. Bring 5 pieces in that size range. A couple #0.75 Camalots may also go in. TCUs are helpful for the start and a #1 Camalot or 2.5 Friend will protect the finishing thin-hands crack. There is a good double-bolt anchor at the finish.
I agree - very burly. I'm not great on burly liebacks so this was very hard for me - about comparable to Fingers In A Lightsocket, 11+ is fair. May 13, 2003
I've seen this route and Scarface graded the same in some guide books. I think that only holds true if you have little sausage fingers, meaning the baggy fingers on Sicilian feel bomber to you and the short section of tight hands on Scarface feel hard to you. I have average fingers and think that if Sicilian is 5.11b, then Scarface is 5.10+. Nov 11, 2003
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.11+
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
5.11+
I recommend #2 camalots over #1's for the top section. It was more like a combination of hands and thin hands for the top. I'd also agree with the 5.11+ grading. It felt harder than most 5.11s I've done in the Creek and felt only slightly easier than Coyne Crack, even with the cheating layback tactic. Apr 23, 2006
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11-
This route for me is considerably easier than Scarface (I have large fingers). It's basically perfect locks the whole way with good rests. If you have big hands don't hesitate to jump on it. Jan 31, 2007
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Agree with 11+. The changing corners is tough to get the foot up on finger stacks. Harder than it looks, with plenty of off-fingers. Red metolius is bomber for the changing corners. Nice route. Mar 31, 2008
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
FA- Scott Carson Feb 2, 2009
Zac Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
Zac Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
bheller wrote:
FA- Scott Carson


off fingers... of course! good line Scott! Mar 24, 2009
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
i find this one very difficult. bad size, changing corners, slippery, no contours or irregularities to dig your thumb tips into. i actually find this one considerably harder than most 11 to 11+ pitches out here. a lot of climbing in such a short pitch. May 26, 2009
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
I have been on this a couple times this season and recently someone pointed out to me that most of the original start "fell off," which has completely changed the character of this climb. Some crag speculation that it could even be as hard as 5.12- with the modified start? I can not comment on the increased difficulty. Apr 4, 2016
Where's Walden
  5.12-
Where's Walden  
  5.12-
Felt harder than Gurka May 6, 2016
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
The block at the bottom fell out some time during summer 2015...see this thread: mountainproject.com/v/first….

Rack in camalots: (3-4) .5, (2) .75, (1) 1, (1) 2.

The "New Sicilian" felt like 12- to me, with a sequential cruxy start. Dec 27, 2016
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Lol I think the guidebook had this at 11- and it felt damn hard for an 11-. Makes me feel better to see people suggesting 11+/12- haha. May 2, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11+
I could not layback the opening changing corners/roof section and thus locked through it. Not too bad. 11+ seems right. Great route. Oct 30, 2018