Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,334 total · 23/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Mar 27, 2014 with updates from Allie Jackson
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


198 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A short but engaging route that runs from #2 Camalots to .5 Camalots with several face ledges to eke out some rests. Crux is 3/4 of the way up on ring locks, but there are good feet to take you through.

Location

A south-facing wall around the corner (climber's left) from Scarface and Where's Carruthers. Begins off a boulder with solid hands in above a flare for your feet. Leans to the right, angle kicks back as you climb higher.

Protection

2 #2 Camalots, 3 #1 Camalots, 1 .75 Camalot and 1 .5 Camalot will sew it up. Bolted anchors.

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Kat A
Boulder, CO
Kat A   Boulder, CO
This is a nice warmup route that receives morning shade. I racked up on double 0.5, 0.75, 1, and 2 camalots though I prefer to sew it up on lead. Oct 28, 2008
Average Jim
  5.9
Average Jim  
  5.9
I agree, I led this climb the other day and placed a 2.5 tec friend, one BD #1, two BD .75s, and two BD .5s and that was plenty for someone just getting into leading the thinner sizes. Keep an eye out for the foot holds out to the right, they will give you a bit of a rest. Mar 11, 2009
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
  5.10-
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
  5.10-
FYI the left (lower) anchor bolt was extremely loose and wiggly on 11/24. I was able to tighten it back down, but it will likely come loose again. Nov 28, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Awkward start to great thin hands and fingers. Definitely look for good smears on the right. Awesome warmup/intro. Oct 2, 2013
justino  
One day while walking along the wall, my partner pointed out this route and questioned whether I had climbed it before. Having done so, he then hung his head in shame admitting that it was one of his FA's. The route was named Scar Tissue and rated 5.9, however a plaque was never made. He was embarrassed to accept credit for the FA. Apparently the climb wasn't machismo enough to withstand his own scorn as a true grit desert curmudgeon. Apr 2, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Why was he ashamed? Apr 2, 2014
Jake Dickerson
Lander, WY
 
Jake Dickerson   Lander, WY  
 
I enjoyed it alot. Great easier route for a warm up or for new crack climbers. Aug 13, 2014
SThal
Los Alamos, NM
SThal   Los Alamos, NM
This is the same route as "unnamed 10-" which is listed to the left of this here on MP. Nov 22, 2016
Keith W
  5.9+
Keith W  
  5.9+
This is a fun route and certainly worth doing if you are in the area or waiting for Scarface. Short and sweet! May 1, 2017