Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Petro & Gnade
Page Views: 5,965 total · 56/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 14, 2010
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Death of a Cowboy is a five-star route with a great boulder problem start followed by one of the best 100' stretches of 5.10 hands in the creek. The in-your-face opening demands powerful moves on first knuckle locks with crap for feet to a total hero move to a jug. Standing on this jug provides a nice rest and time to soak up the glory of the send before tackling overhanging hands to vertical wide hands forever.

Protection

A few green and yellow Aliens for the start, then a couple #1 Camalots protect transitioning to the hand crack. The hand crack itself is #2 and #3 Camalots all the way. A 70m rope is necessary to reach the ground.

Photos

D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
It seems the difficulty of the boulder problem could be a bit height dependent, but not in the usual sense. My friend is a couple inches taller than me, about 6-foot, and much more powerful but he couldn't seem to handle the first hard move, while I stuck it every time. It must still be doable for the tall folks, though, because I've seen a picture of Clay Cahoon on it, and that guy is tall! (I don't know if he sent or not, but knowing the kind of climber he is, I'm sure he did.) Apr 25, 2012
Brad G  
A great route to try if you're looking to break into 5.13. Four #3 camolots would be comfortable for the top. Oct 29, 2012
AL .
UT
  5.12+
AL .   UT
  5.12+
This thing has unfortunately seen the same fate as Ruby's Cafe. The crux is being loved to death while the rest of the pitch seems relatively untouched. I believe this has resulted in a widening of the crack and a downgrade, even 12+ is a bit generous and I have quite large fingers. That being said, what an awesome pitch! Get on it and climb to the anchor! Mar 5, 2017