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5.9, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 96 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Scarface
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Good warm-up or beginner lead. Liebacking or jamming up dihedral with lots of feet ledges on the left wall. Both crack systems that continue from the top of P1 have anchors, making this is best done as a two pitch route! The left finger splitter is harder than the left facing dihedral.

Location

Keep going left a ways past Scarface. It's the easy-looking route right of Black Uhuru 100 - 200 yards. There's a short #1s 5.11 crack to the right of this route.

Protection

Mainly #1s, a couple of .75s and a #2. Good anchors atop on a ledge with lots of loose rock. A 70m rope will get you down, not sure about a 60m?

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

almost to the top... who ever went to the right off the ledge has no clue how to find a route? but has plenty of time to  scratch in "no anchors" on more then one rock on top of pitch one
[Hide Photo] almost to the top... who ever went to the right off the ledge has no clue how to find a route? but has plenty of time to scratch in "no anchors" on more then one rock on top of pitch one
at the top of pitch 2
[Hide Photo] at the top of pitch 2
thin at the start then it turn's to perfect hands
[Hide Photo] thin at the start then it turn's to perfect hands
top of pitch 2
[Hide Photo] top of pitch 2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LahDaBudz
moab, ut
[Hide Comment] i believe there is now a 2nd pitch of.10 for about 60 feet starts as a sporty climb that can be protected with a blue tcu. it then goes thin hands to i believe a couple of #4 camalots. worth it just for the second pitch Jan 25, 2010
Jay 1975
Bonedale, CO
[Hide Comment] 2nd pitch is good! with a crack switch! Mar 23, 2010
Rob R.
Chicago, IL
 
[Hide Comment] Following the Bloom IC book, I headed up the second pitch expecting to find some anchors. I followed the crack in the dihedral up and onto the flake, then up a tiny bit of offwidth back into thin hands to a low-angle, lichen-covered ledge of sorts at maybe 60 feet.

No anchors.

It was late, I was short on gear, and no anchors were in sight, so I retreated. Maybe someone will fill the rest of us in on where this second pitch ends :)?

It is a really fun pitch! 2-3 BD #3s are very helpful on this second pitch. May 27, 2010
John Braun
Hendersonville, NC
[Hide Comment] When we visited in early November of 2011, a plaque at the base of the route said something like "bad anchor on second pitch" or "second pitch one bolt anchor." Can anybody confirm or deny this? Jan 9, 2012
Dan 60D5H411
Colorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Recently tried to do the second pitch of this route....my partner climbed up through the nice corner, into the blocky section, and past a short offwidth/slot. He continued on for another 10 feet (for a total of around 70) and was left with a view of 30 more feet of offwidth but no visible anchors in sight. Lacking in gear and any indication that higher anchors existed, he ended down-climbing until he reached a single piece of old tat, slung around one of the blocks wedged in the corner. Although he enjoyed the climbing, he certainly would not recommend this pitch until someone places a second set of decent anchors. Nov 24, 2012
andrew grieder
Flagstaff
[Hide Comment] I had the same experience as the previous poster. A nice second pitch but no anchor. I had no big gear so slung a chockstone (looked much better than the tat midway up the pitch), tested it many times and cleaned the pitch. The stone gave way just after I cleaned the first piece of the pitch. Landed on my feet on the P1 belay ledge with the sling floating down and 140 ft of rope out. We scratched no anchor with an up arrow at the P1 belay. Hopefully there will be no next time but, if so, I'll down aid if gear allows; a bit more work but no potentially disasterous consequences. Stay safe! Apr 29, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
[Hide Comment] from the top of pitch one move left thin blue TCU Crack to some sporty moves thin hands to #3 cammlots to the top . an a two bolt anchor with hangers that read "no gud"EDIT i replaced the anchors on pitch 2 March 2014 get after it!! this is a great climb.. the pitch in the corner looks fun next time im up that way i will put in an anchor.. an have the previous posters give it a name... cheers DF May 3, 2013
andrew grieder
Flagstaff
[Hide Comment] Sounds like the second pitch does not follow the obvious left facing varnished corner but goes left?
Here is a neat prussik technique to descend off one point and cut your risk if you can't find an anchor. Twenty years of climbing and I've never seen this but it is a great one to know. Thanks to Pete T. for telling me - although it could have been a month earlier!!!

petzl.com/files/all/en/acti… May 16, 2013
Joe M
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Did the 2nd pitch and had to come down for a #4 Camalot. Appreciated to protect the last wide part before the anchors. Apr 15, 2015
kyletan
 
[Hide Comment] I found some really old-looking webbing threaded directly through the hangers at the anchors of the first pitch/belay. I cut the webbing off and replaced it with 2 3/8" screw links to rap from. I'm new to climbing at Indian Creek so if this is not in keeping with the preferred anchor care ethics, please let me know. Nov 16, 2015
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Two links each bolt? A single link on each bolt will kink your rope. Nov 16, 2015
kyletan
 
[Hide Comment] The webbing that was up there had a really worn through, thin, aluminum rap ring and an older screw link on it. After removing the old webbing that was threaded directly through the hangers and placing the new screw links I placed a new SMC 32KN ring on one of the new links, and attached the older link to the other new link. This should let the rope run smoothly through when pulled after rapping.
That's a good piece of advice on the two links. Thanks Darren. Nov 17, 2015
Derek Field
California
  5.8
[Hide Comment] P1: Lots of good stances/rests keep this at 5.8
P2 is the splitter to the left of the obvious corner, not the corner itself. It's a solid pitch of baggy hands with some wideness near the top. I'd recommend bringing a #2, four #3 and a #4 for the offwidthy bit right below the anchors. Small gear (TCU) protects the bouldery start to this pitch. Sep 26, 2016
Vit
5.9
[Hide Comment] The P2 corner now has a rap anchor. It's an enjoyable 5.9 pitch from #4 down to tips. A 70m rope will get you down, not sure about a 60. Enjoy! Oct 13, 2016
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Pitch one is mostly .75s and 1s so it's great for folks with small hands. I have big hands so this felt quite challenging. Lots of rests keep the struggle minimal though. Nov 12, 2017