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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Optimator Wall is in Indian Creek (as you may know) and is between the 4x4 wall and the Bridger Jacks.

Getting There

Get There: take the 2 track road towards the "jacks" but fork left towards a south facing black wall.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Optimator

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
Charlie's Pillar
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 151
Lady Pillar
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 227
Neat
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Mudslide
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 53
Sardikar
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 71
Long Island Iced Ted
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 85
Casey's Route
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 104
Hayutake
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 167
Soul Fire
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 21
Jews On Crack
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 308
Annunaki
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 17
Double Bock
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 11
Optimator
Trad
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 6
Pat's Blue Ribbon
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Charlie's Pillar
 90
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Lady Pillar
 151
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Neat
 227
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mudslide
 59
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Sardikar
 53
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Long Island Iced Ted
 71
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Casey's Route
 85
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Hayutake
 104
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Soul Fire
 167
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Jews On Crack
 21
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Annunaki
 308
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Double Bock
 17
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Optimator
 11
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
Pat's Blue Ribbon
 6
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Optimator »

Weather Averages

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Photos

At the cattle guard after crossing the creek turn left, away from the Jacks. turn right onto an access road and follow it for about 3/4 a mile to the hill below the cliff. There are a few camp sites along the access road and a turn around at the end. This will save you some walking. Mar 28, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Great wall with longer pitches. Nice moring to noon-sun. Take your 70M rope! Nov 1, 2005
Sarah Kate
Seattle, WA
Sarah Kate   Seattle, WA
Favorite wall on the creek so far for the ladies. My hands are approx. WC .75-1 for "perfect hands", had a total blast all day up there. Afternoon shade, quiet. DO BRING THE 70 and a couple of nuts and brassies if you're looking at Hayduke. May 5, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Sarah, you do mean BD .75 and 1 camalots for perfect hands...right? I'm not even sure if my 18 month old could get perfect hands in a #1 WC friend crack. May 11, 2009
poundit14
Laramie, WY
poundit14   Laramie, WY
This is a good wall that gets plenty of afternoon shade, and is inhabited by grumpy old men, constantly reminding you of how tough they are by downgrading all the climbing, while tr'ing laps on Neat. Apr 15, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
Found some gear here on Saturday 10/30. Send me a message if it's yours. Nov 3, 2010
!!LOST CAMERA!! - Cannon Powershot SD970 (silver) in a soft blue case... I put it on top of the car in the parking lot at the base of The Optimator, so it might be found there or it might be along the bumpy road out. :-(
$200 REWARD!! (feel free to walk the road as a team looking for it...I'm in Colorado or I would)

FYI
I did go back to look not 15 minutes after loosing it and couldn't find it, so the only options left are... it bounced off the road and is now out of sight from the road, the non-climbers in the red truck saw it fall of my car and grabbed it or the spirits of Indian Creek took it/ made it vanish because I took a small rock for my collection (won't do that again!).

Thank you in advance!
tappell@gmail.com Apr 19, 2011

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