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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: David Bloom 2002
Page Views: 5,426 total, 34/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Dec 31, 2004 with updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

On the left side of the wall is this attractive splitter. Pretty much thin hands all the way, with extra thin hands finishing to the chains. It is possible to stem most the route off the crack to the right, but the business at the end is still hard, tight hands. Watch out for the loose chockstones to the right... there are death blocks waiting to fall on the belayer. Also be careful pulling your ropes, we managed to get one stuck on a death block but fortunately someone else was planning on leading the route again.

Protection

#.75, #1 and #2 Camalots. A #3 and/or #3.5 work will at the start.
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Steller and aesthetic line. Although I have huge hands, I was surprised to see that due to the crack lean, most of climb felt solid with the right thumb-down + left thumb-up approach, with some right stem feet interspersed for rests.

It's only at the top where a body-length worth of more bouldery/body tension moves are necessary for the big-handed to get through the tighter crack section to the anchors. Apr 10, 2017
mike1
 
mike1  
 
I thought it was solid 11 but it sure looks like 11-. It has a funny angle, my hands are big, and i did not stem out to the other wall. Apr 3, 2017
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
Did it with five #1s and three #2s. You could lead this thing entirely on #1s if you wanted, but there are pods that take 2s and even a place you could put a 3 about halfway up if you can't get your hands on that many #1s.

I never found a good spot for a .75 however. Apr 23, 2016
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
I had 8 red camalots. I pushed each one a ways and back cleaned one after I fell and placed that higher. So when people say "bring a lot of reds" they're not kidding! I didn't find the #3 mentioned above to be useful, although maybe I would have if I didn't have all those #1's. You need some 0.75 or similar for the top. Apr 10, 2016
Suzy Stoke
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Suzy Stoke   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Perfect #1 pro, and one of my favorite climbs at the Creek! Apr 7, 2014
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
 
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
 
We climbed Soul Fire today, nothing but BD .75 and 1, maybe a 3 before leaving the corner and starting up the splitter, but not really needed.

Great route, 3 stars Apr 29, 2011
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
 
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
 
FA by David Bloom 2002 Jun 29, 2009
Sarah Kate
Seattle, WA
 
Sarah Kate   Seattle, WA
 
LADIES: This is your climb. Perfect hands, perfect feet. Bring as many #1 camalots as you can get your hands on. May 5, 2009