Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Scott Carson, 1995
Page Views: 1,742 total · 15/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The crux of Double Bock is short but fierce. Gently overhanging .5 fingers to .75 ringlocks (Camalots) is what you can expect at the crux. But the climbing eases up to 5.9 hands after that making this a reasonable 5.12 for the Creek. If it wasn't for the soft and slightly loose rock at the top of the route this would be a four star classic for sure.

The new guide book topo (2009) shows climbing a crack to the left of the main crack and then traversing into the main crack. This seems like an error to me since the left crack is tips and it is relatively easy to get to the main crack from the top of the slab.

Location

This route is located on the far right side of the wall just left of "Huffe-Wiesse". Follow the trail right about 100m past the "Optimator" until you get to a grassy section. In the Grassy area the trail makes a 180 degree u-turn back left and up onto a ledge. Follow the ledge for about 50m or so and look for a splitter finger crack up above an easy slab/corner.

Protection

.4 to 2 Camalots.

Photos