Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 1,521 total, 10/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


46 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This climb is way left on the Optimator wall and is one of it's 'full length' pitches. You need a 70M rope to lower off.Walk left to the near end of the wall, where you will see the awazing route "Jews On Crack", a huge right-facing corner that hooks right at the top for a 20' roof traverse with a wide-hands undercling jam-fest.Just back right of this there is a left facing corner that goes forever with a variable width crack to a fixed anchor. This climb Sardikar lives in the shadow of its more stunning neighbors (Soul Fire is the cool thin-hands to hands spillter just to the right), but is no less a great route. The variety fo the crack makes it accessable to those who forgot to bring 12 #3's to the cliff.

Protection

2-3 of everything from .5" to 3.5"

Photos

Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Such awesome variety on this thing - straight-in jams, double-gastoning, face moves, stemming, liebacking. Just killer.

A solid lead in terms of good gear and rests interspersed. Only potential concerns would be protecting the ~#.5+ lieback at the end above the small ledge while you're getting pumped, but if you come into that section prepared to jam in one or two #.5s and get moving quickly, you should be solid. Apr 10, 2017
303scott  
 
Don't miss this route! Great climbing, but, as stated above, a bit funky/scary off the deck. Before pulling the hard moves 25 feet up you can get two small pieces in a wedged chockstone of questionable quality, or it looks like it would take a bomber #5 Camalot. If the chockstone pieces blow, you deck. After that, it's 95 feet of glorious climbing. Mar 12, 2012
slim

  5.10d PG13
slim    
  5.10d PG13
funky climbing at the start, with careful gear and not excellent rock. kind of out of character for the creek. upper part is real fun. Nov 28, 2011
D-Storm
 
D-Storm  
 
Rope beta: With about 12 feet trimmed off of a 70-meter rope, and after cleaning all the gear and with the knot at the Grigri, I was able to swing onto the top of a boulder to the right of the climb. I would agree that this route has a serious nature and would not be a good choice for someone just starting to lead 10+/11-. In addition to the tricky gear, there is a long section of #2 Camalots where there is lensing (the wall is hollow) that makes them a tad suspect. Fun climb, though, and worth doing at least once if you've done everything else there. May 3, 2010
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10+ PG13
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10+ PG13
I thought this climb was a bit scary. It isn't your typical IC splitter. Also there is a loose flake that you need to yard on/step on that was a bit heady. Fun though for sure. Nov 5, 2009
The start of this one had sort of an 'Eldo' feel to it: intermittent pro, tricky stemming, that sort of thing. I liked it. Jun 8, 2006