Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 1,742 total · 11/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 28, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


This climb is way left on the Optimator wall and is one of it's 'full length' pitches. You need a 70M rope to lower off.Walk left to the near end of the wall, where you will see the awazing route "Jews On Crack", a huge right-facing corner that hooks right at the top for a 20' roof traverse with a wide-hands undercling jam-fest.Just back right of this there is a left facing corner that goes forever with a variable width crack to a fixed anchor. This climb Sardikar lives in the shadow of its more stunning neighbors (Soul Fire is the cool thin-hands to hands spillter just to the right), but is no less a great route. The variety fo the crack makes it accessable to those who forgot to bring 12 #3's to the cliff.


2-3 of everything from .5" to 3.5"


The start of this one had sort of an 'Eldo' feel to it: intermittent pro, tricky stemming, that sort of thing. I liked it. Jun 8, 2006
  5.10+ PG13
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10+ PG13
I thought this climb was a bit scary. It isn't your typical IC splitter. Also there is a loose flake that you need to yard on/step on that was a bit heady. Fun though for sure. Nov 5, 2009
Rope beta: With about 12 feet trimmed off of a 70-meter rope, and after cleaning all the gear and with the knot at the Grigri, I was able to swing onto the top of a boulder to the right of the climb. I would agree that this route has a serious nature and would not be a good choice for someone just starting to lead 10+/11-. In addition to the tricky gear, there is a long section of #2 Camalots where there is lensing (the wall is hollow) that makes them a tad suspect. Fun climb, though, and worth doing at least once if you've done everything else there. May 3, 2010

  5.10d PG13
  5.10d PG13
funky climbing at the start, with careful gear and not excellent rock. kind of out of character for the creek. upper part is real fun. Nov 28, 2011
Don't miss this route! Great climbing, but, as stated above, a bit funky/scary off the deck. Before pulling the hard moves 25 feet up you can get two small pieces in a wedged chockstone of questionable quality, or it looks like it would take a bomber #5 Camalot. If the chockstone pieces blow, you deck. After that, it's 95 feet of glorious climbing. Mar 12, 2012
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Such awesome variety on this thing - straight-in jams, double-gastoning, face moves, stemming, liebacking. Just killer.

A solid lead in terms of good gear and rests interspersed. Only potential concerns would be protecting the ~#.5+ lieback at the end above the small ledge while you're getting pumped, but if you come into that section prepared to jam in one or two #.5s and get moving quickly, you should be solid. Apr 10, 2017
Really good climb, with refreshing variety and good movement compared to the standard boring plug and chug IC Splitter. ignore comments about this being scary. It's only scary if you are expecting to place gear every 4 feet. Sardikar 4 Eva! Apr 8, 2018
Stephen Lander
Salt Lake City, UT
Stephen Lander   Salt Lake City, UT
Really cool route! Bouldering, stemming, double cracks, jams, broken up with nice rest ledges. Definitely save a .5 for the final lieback. May 4, 2018
double delay
4 Corners
double delay   4 Corners
save a .5 for the top! i took a pretty big fall and clipped a ledge on the way down falling from the last finger crack before the anchor Nov 24, 2018