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Routes in The Optimator
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Also Charlie's Pillar (aka Brodie Machine) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Backside Luge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Boriqua T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Cobweb Splitter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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El Cubano T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flying Lizard T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fourth Dementia, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hayutake [direct start] T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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He Brews T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Herbie's King Cobra T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jive Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jungle Juice T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Island Iced Tea T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lucky Lager T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mudslide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Pueda T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Optimator | 3611, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 38.0758, -109.5948 |
| FA: | unknown to me |
| Page Views: | 3,094 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 28, 2005 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
2025 Raptor Avoidance Areas. blm.gov/announcement/blm-as…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Map of closed areas: blm.gov/visit/indian-creek-…
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This climb is way left on the Optimator wall and is one of it's 'full length' pitches. You need a 70M rope to lower off.Walk left to the near end of the wall, where you will see the awazing route "Jews On Crack", a huge right-facing corner that hooks right at the top for a 20' roof traverse with a wide-hands undercling jam-fest.Just back right of this there is a left facing corner that goes forever with a variable width crack to a fixed anchor. This climb Sardikar lives in the shadow of its more stunning neighbors (Soul Fire is the cool thin-hands to hands spillter just to the right), but is no less a great route. The variety fo the crack makes it accessable to those who forgot to bring 12 #3's to the cliff.
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