Type: Trad, 105 ft (32 m)
FA: Dan Scott, Philippe Wheelock
Page Views: 1,332 total · 10/month
Shared By: D F on Apr 7, 2010 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This fingers splitter would be quite popular if it wasn't for a short bit of steep choss at the bottom. The hollow block/flake isn't that bad except for a crumbly move to gain an easy ramp at its top. However, most people probably wouldn't want to climb this more than once or twice.

The finger crack is in some lovely varnish. It starts as tight .5 Camalots and tapers to several feet of #0 Metolious TCUs (purple). With face holds just where you need them, there are some power moves and some balance moves.

Location

Take a right where the trail meets the cliff, near the corner of "Neat". Look for a sandy, left-facing ramp about 30 feet right of a splitter off-width, which is in the Bloom guide. "Baroque" is the left of twin cracks at the top of the ramp that lead to an obvious flat ledge on the varnished face. There is a plaque at the base. The ramp is gained by climbing a hand crack on the right side of a large block perched on a rotten band. (I don't know if the left side of the block — a thin corner crack — is better; I doubt it.) If you come to the petroglyphs along the trail you've gone about 150 feet too far right.

Protection

#0 Metolius TCU (x2 to sew it up), #1 TCU (x2), .4 Camalot (x3), .5 Camalot (x2); and #2 Camalot (x2), #3 Camalot and #4 Camalot, and two or three long runners for the start (one double-length runner is useful).

Photos

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