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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mike Schneiter
Page Views: 1,330 total · 11/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 17, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Splitter in right facing corner with wide hands to offwidth with good edges in the crack or on the corner of the crack to take some of the burl out of the OW.

Location [Suggest Change]

Located about 100 feet left of Jews on Crack or about 250 feet left of Soul Fire. Climbs a right facing corner. Plaque at the base.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Camalots from #2 to new #6, with doubles in #3 and #4, or whatever you feel comfortable with. Two bolt chain anchor.

Photos

SAL
broomdigiddy
 
SAL   broomdigiddy
 
Fun route.
worth doing for sure.
I didnt use anything bigger then an old camalot4.5

2 of them. one before the wide pod and one after. protects well.
2 #4's
2-3.5
2-3's
was what I took. Apr 27, 2009
slim

  5.10a
slim    
  5.10a
a nice little route. great way to end the day. Nov 28, 2011
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
Fun down low, but kind of a gnarly section of that #~4.5 crack that can be tough - too small to really get a solid heel-toe and armbars working well, but too big for straight-in toe jams or hand stacks.

Be prepared for a battle if you don't climb that size crack very often. It certainly protects well though, so with proper cams you'll be safe. Apr 10, 2017

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